Sunday, February 19, 2012

Sulfur - magical hair growth potion or just another smelly mineral?

©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Sulfur (Sulphur) is necessary to produce collagen, which is part of the matrix of skin and cartilage. Sulfur is also very abundant in keratin, which is the protein structure of hair and fingernails/toenails and in the amino acids in the cuticles of hair. There is not much research I can find regarding ordinary hair, nail and skin complaints and dietary sulfur or sulfur supplements, but inflammatory and immune system disorders such as rosacea and allergies have shown some clinical responses to sulfur in the diet or as supplements. Adequate daily sulfur intake can certainly help set up a situation for healthier skin, hair, and nails.  
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
The sulfur in our diets comes from soil and water - which then becomes parts of plants, which we eat, or becomes parts of plant-eating animals we eat or animals which eat plant-eating animals (for example, chickens who eat insects). I'm lumping a number of forms of sulfur in foods and water under the general heading "sulfur" to make this more clear. When an obvious sulfur deficiency is established in a group of people and then published in scientific or medical journals, it is usually in malnourished populations who are eating an extremely limited diet - not well-nourished people.  The body system most altered (medically) is the immune system and protein production. But for our purposes, protein production includes your hair and skin and finger/toe nails! The majority of research available is based on sulfur-containing amino acids (from protein in foods), not sulfur supplements. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

So we have a body of research that tells us we need to consume sulfur from protein-containing foods, and also that sulfur from other sources or from supplements may have benefits of their own. But we cannot substitute one for the other.

There is no established "daily requirement" for sulfur in the United States. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, World Health Organization and others have suggested 13 mg per kg of body weight per day. A 150 pound person would then require 890 mg sulfur in their daily diet as a bare minimum. Given that eating an abundance of sulfur in foods has virtually no side effects, let's look at sulfur content in foods. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

Here is a short list of sulfur per amount of food you might normally eat (for example, one egg, one slice of wheat bread, one apple), all numbers are approximate:©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

Roasted peanuts (10 whole peanuts): 350 mg - about equivalent to 2 tablespoons of peanut butter
Fish and seafood: 200 mg+
Beef (per 100g or 4 oz serving): 200 mg +
Brazil nuts (5) 290 mg
Chicken (per 100g or 4 oz serving): 130-200 mg
Almonds (10 whole): 150 mg
Pork (per 100g or 4 oz serving): 100-200 mg
Cheese (25g or a 1-inch cube): 200 mg
One egg: 180 mg
Wheat bread: 90-150 mg
Walnuts (5): 100 mg
Dried dates (6): 50 mg
Dried figs (2): up to 80 mg
Pasta: around 30 mg
Milk (230 g or 1 cup): 30 mg
Olives (5): 30 mg
Raisins (1 1/2 teaspoons): 20 mg
Raspberries (about one cup): 20 mg
Strawberries (10): 10 mg
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Vegetables: A one cup serving of most vegetables (this is the raw measurement - cooked vegetables "shrink" a little) contains between 10 and 80 mg sulfur. Cabbage, broccoli and spinach are on the high end. Onions provide 50 mg per 1/4 of an onion. Lentils, chickpeas and dried beans fall in this range as well. I am not finding a figure for garlic, also high in sulfur - but I'm not one of those people who eats whole cloves of garlic. Not unless there are a team of vampires beating down my door.

Foods with high-sulfur amino acids (for example, cystine and methionine) for which I do not have actual figures and are not included in the above list: tofu, turkey, other game animals

You may get some sulfur in the form of sulfate in your drinking water. 

A person who eats a varied, nutritious diet is not likely to be deficient in sulfur. If you are a vegetarian and do not regularly consume eggs or dairy products, if you have a digestive disease which effects your ability to absorb nutrients, or if you do not have a varied diet (including diets restricted because of medical necessity), you may fall a little short on sulfur intake. Good vegetarian sources of sulfur-containing amino acids are nuts and seeds, wheat, and tofu (particularly brands congealed with minerals containing sulfate, in the US, Mori-nu brand is an example).

Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is a sulfur supplement which is generally considered very nontoxic. It can have side effects for some people - so do your research if you choose to supplement. It is usually marketed for skin, hair, nails, and joint health.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

Another source of sulfur can be soaking in epsom salt baths, which was the subject of this post.

As noted, sulfur supplements have not been proven to speed hair growth, improve hair strength, or to be more beneficial to one hair texture over another. It makes sense that an adequate intake of sulfur will provide you with the sulfur you need to produce healthy skin and hair - and if you don't consume enough, then your skin, hair and nails may be less-than-healthy and less strong than you'd like. Check the list and tally up the foods you eat and see how your diet adds up. I'm thrilled that peanuts are high in sulfur. I love onions and cabbage, but one can only eat so much of them. I'd like to give you figures for drinking water, but this varies tremendously by region, water treatment and so on.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Have you read that soils are depleted in nutrients and therefore foods have fewer minerals? This bit is for the science-lover in you:
Sulfur is concentrated in "topsoil" and in organic matter (biodegrading plants, animals, insects, bacteria and fungi). Sulfur the mineral (S)  has to be turned into sulfate (SO4-) by soil microorganisms, which is water-soluble whereas sulfur (S) is not. This happens when the soil is warm and moist. Sulfate can be washed down through the soil when it rains heavily, or washed away with topsoil via erosion.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
So when topsoil is lost (as is common all over the world where there is agriculture), the reservoir of sulfur is reduced. When we add insecticides, fungicides, and fertilizers and use machines to till the soil, we change the communities of microbes in the soil and this may create both problems and solutions. For example, some fertilizers improve plant uptake of sulfur. So yes, soils can lose sulfur, or they can be deficient in sulfur to begin with (and sulfur deficiency is very obvious in plants). This is a result of a lot of people living on a small planet. Some fertilizers are salts which use sulfur as part of the salt, therefore providing sulfur to the soil. But in my region, we usually use mainly ammonia (no sulfur) and manure (variable sulfur) to grow mostly maize, soybeans, and hay, much of which are fed to cattle and hogs.

If you decide to increase your intake of sulfur-rich foods, water intake or supplements, keep in mind that any difference which may occur in your hair or fingernails will take months to appear, and it will be in the new growth only. 

Robert F. Grimble, 2006. The Effects of Sulfur Amino Acid Intake on Immune Function in Humans. The Journal of Nutrition 136:1660S-1665S

Friday, February 3, 2012

How Hot is Too Hot for Healthy Hair?

Updated: March 2024

I put a thermometer’s sensor in the bowl of the diffuser I use on my hair dryer - if you dry your hair up close like this, that's the right place to test the temperature. The hair dryer was set on "warm" and "low." The temperature rose to 125°F (52°C). Now, looking at an article published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science titled, "The Cracking of Human Hair Cuticles by Cyclical Thermal Stresses," I have some answers. The author tested hair alternately immersed in water, then blow dried at various temperatures from 86° to 212° F (30°C to 100° C), re-wetted, and blow dried again up to 100 times. Then they looked for cracks in the cuticle and protein loss. These cracks are very small – limited to individual cuticle scales and always longitudinal, (up and down, not across). For example, when hair samples were treated with 10 seconds of wetting in water, followed by 10 seconds of blow drying at 203° F (75° C), the hair progressed from having 0 cracks to having 600 cracks per millimeter of hair after 30 wetting and drying cycles. Hair which was not subjected to these treatments was also examined, showing no increase in this type of microscopic cuticle cracking.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

An interesting twist: When you begin to heat-dry your hair with a diffuser, the water in your hair actually lowers the temperature overall. Water absorbs extra heat during the process of changing from a liquid to a gas (water vapor) and this brings down the temperature of the air around your hair as long as it is damp by a few degrees or more. As your hair dries, there is less and less water to moderate the heat from the diffuser.

How Hot is Too hot?©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

They found that blow-dried hair, held at temps between 167° and 203° F (75 to 95°C) for at least 10 seconds produced the most cracks/hair damage. These cracks occur because of the fast change from wet to dry. The sudden vaporization of water causes the cuticle scales to contract and become rigid - and crack. That leads to more porosity and greater potential protein loss when wetted and dehydration in general. It's worse if you heat hair very fast - a slow heating produced fewer cracks than applying high heat suddenly.

Below 122°F (50°C) cracks did not appear during blow-drying and the author suspected that temps up to 150°F (65°C) did not produce that super-fast vaporization that causes cuticle cracks.

If you want to test your hair dryer, place an oven thermometer or candy thermometer wherever your hair would be in proximity to the warm air coming out of the blow dryer or diffuser attachment. Then, refer to this:
©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
"Safe" zone: 122° F or 50° C or lower
Probably safe: 122-150°F or 65°C
Danger zone: 167-203°F or 75-95°C and above

Curling irons, straightening or “flatirons” fall into the “danger zone” as well. The “safe” temperatures probably are the “low” temperature settings on blow dryers, but it doesn’t hurt to test yours.

Heat Protectants:©Science-y Hair Blog 2013


It was notable that when hair was wetted in a solution containing 2% glycerin or propylene glycol instead of plain water, the cracks did not develop. But “conditioning agents” such as Polyquaternium-11, Cetrimonium chloride,  and Stearylkonium chloride did not prevent cuticle cracking. Triglycerides, silicones, mineral oils and petrolatum also did not prevent cracking. The protein polymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer was found to prevent cuticle cracking. Other proteins and conditioners were not tested. Other testing has demonstrated that P/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer and Polyquaternium-55 have good heat-protecting qualities. I am taking these data from the literature distributed by the manufacturers of these two ingredients, heat damage in this case was determined by protein loss – and when the cuticle has many cracks in it, it will lose protein when wetted. Protein-loss is a good indicator of hair damage with high heat.

Oils and Silicones
Oils and silicones disperse heat - like when you dip your finger in water before touching the heated surface to test the temperature of an iron or frying pan. Or like putting on a light-weight oven mitt. You couldn't hold a hot pan for 2 or 3 minutes, even with an oven mitt on - but you can hold it for a short while without getting burned. Another very important benefit of oils and silicones in heat protectants is that they keep your hair flexible and lubricated, which helps both in styling and prevents a dry feeling.
Silicones in particular, like Dimethicone can provide an effective layer of heat dispersal during blow-drying, flat-ironing or curling iron styling. Amodimethicone and other amino-modified silicones interact with hair in a unique way, providing a protective (but micro-thin!) coating to further protect against moisture loss and heat-damage.

Best Application Method?©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

A product that spreads over your hair evenly can protect it the best. That gives an advantage to rinse-out conditioners and styling creams. If you prefer sprays, it's recommended to spray individual sections before curling or straightening.

List of proven heat-protecting ingredients:

  • Amodimethicone
  • Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer
  • Dimethicone
  • Glycerin (2% - and that is a lot for any formulation)
  • Hydrolyzed wheat protein (any hydrolyzed protein will likely be helpful)
  • Hydrolyzed vegetable protein PG-propyl silanetriol 
  • Hydrolyzed wheat protein PG-propyl silanetriol 
  • Sodium Laneth-40 Maleate/Styrene Sulfonate Copolymer
  • P/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer 
  • Polyquaternium-55 
  • Polyquaternium-68
  • Polyquaternium-37 (may offer some heat protection)
  • Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl Dimethicone
  • Propylene glycol
  • VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer
  • VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer
  • Quaternium 70 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride) 
  • Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Same ingredient as the above)
    • These 2 (above) are very common in rinse-out conditioners, check yours!
  • Sodium polystyrene sulfonate 
  • Sodium Laneth-40 Maleate/Styrene Sulfonate Copolymer
Products containing these heat protectants available in the 'States

May be more suitable for Fine/Thin hair: 

Richer products for blowouts or straightening

Rinse-Out or Leave-In Conditioner + Heat Protectant

Heat Protectants for Naturally Curly Styles

©Science-y Hair Blog 2013


Gamez-Garcia M. 1998. The Cracking of Human Hair Cuticles by Cyclical Thermal Stresses. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 49, 141-153.