My Hair Can't Seem To Get Enough Protein!

Are you one of those people who started using protein treatments (for example, the gelatine treatment from this blog) and find that, at some times of year, the effects wear off quickly. But you don't want to do the whole treatment over  - especially if you're one of those people who leaves it on for an entire hour!

Here's a way to get a respectable dose of protein with relatively litte effort. Keep that low-frizz wave and curl definition going strong.

Do-It-Yourself Protein Additive for Conditioner©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Mix up this gelatine base (instructions below):
1 packet Knox Unflavored gelatine (or any unflavored gelatin 0.25 oz, 7.25 g or 2 1/2 teaspoons)
1/2 cup distilled water
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Mix the gelatine and water (room temperature water) and then pop it in the microwave for about 30 seconds - or heat the water to boiling and then add it to the gelatine. Cool until cool enough to touch.

Now - refrigerate this mixture. This is 6% protein.
To use the gelatine - scoop out an equal amount of gelatine mixture as you will use conditioner. If you use 2 teaspoons conditioner (please measure your conditioner to be certain), then use 2 teaspoons of gelatine. Soften the gelatine by heating it slightly (until it liquefies) and mix with the conditioner.

Now you have a 3% protein conditioner. Apply it to your hair as you usually apply conditioner. Leave it on for at least a minute or two before rinsing.

If this is too much protein for your hair (your hair becomes too stiff or overly soft after using it), try using 2 parts conditioner for each 1 part gelatine mixture. For example, 2 teaspoons conditioner and 1 teaspoon gelatine mixture.

I suppose you could add 1/2 cup conditioner to the gelatine after it has cooled a bit, but before it sets, but be careful when you heat the product so it doesn't separate.
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More Protein, More!
If you like this, but want it to be stronger in the protein department, then make the gelatine base with only 1/4 cup water and proceed - your conditioner will now be a whopping 6% protein.

Good luck!

If your hair begins to be too soft, too stiff or limp then knock it off and go back to whatever you were doing.

What's Cookin' - Easy, Humectant Wave/Curl Boosting Jelly

For this recipe, I was trying to keep what I like about Garnier Fructis Pure Clean Gel and leave what I don't like about it (the scent, too much glycerin and sorbitol, the silicate clay ingredient that is tricky to use).©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
A quick scan of the ingredients and I ruled out the things I didn't want to bother with and that aren't easy to get and formulate with. You can find all these ingredients at drugstores or grocery stores. This recipe is extremely simple, and very good for helping your hair form nice chunky waves and curls - it made mine less frizzy than usual. It has medium hold on its own. If you want more hold, layer some strong-hold gel over it.
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The ingredients:
Water: Solvent, dliutent
Xanthan gum: Creates a thick "gel," provides medium hold with humidity-resistance, may slow water loss.
Glycerin(e): Humectant, binds water, boosts curls (for some folks).
Acacia gum: Optional. Adds a bit of "crunch" for more hold. This is sold as a dietary soluble fiber supplement.

I use a double boiler (see my beat-up double boiler at right - it's a metal bowl set in a saucepan with water in the pan almost up to the level of the base of the bowl).
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The recipe:

• 1 cup water (plus an extra tablespoon or 2 which will evaporate as you heat).
• 1 1/4 heaping teaspoons xanthan gum (2% or 5g)
• 1/2 teaspoon glycerin - make this a scant half-teaspoon; more than 1/4 teaspoon, less than 1/2 teaspoon (1% or 2.5 g)
• a pinch (1/16 teaspoon) acacia gum (gum arabic) - optional but good. You can use more - up to 1/2 teaspoon, for example, but you'll need to add conditioner or oil to balance out that stiffness.

Put all ingredients in the double boiler over medium to high heat. When water boils, turn it down. Whisk the ingredients well. The mixture will thicken within a few minutes. Whisk until no more xanthan gum powder is visible. Remove from heat and cool.

Pour into a sterilized bottle and refrigerate immediately - or add preservative according to manufacturer specifications. THAT'S IT! SO EASY.
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What else can I add?

• Magnesium sulfate (1/2 teaspoon) - this is also a humectant and curl enhancer but it can be drying to hair and cause friction.
• Oil - avocado, grapeseed, coconut, shea butter, sweet almond, jojoba...
• Gelatine or hydrolyzed protein such as Colorful Neutral Protein Filler (1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon)
• Aloe. Replace up to half of the water with aloe vera juice - the edible/drinkable kind, not a pre-thickened gel.

What else can I do with this gel? Make a mild shampoo!
Mix a tablespoon or 2 of this gel with a half-teaspoon of shampoo for a milder shampoo which spreads easily in the hair. Get really fancy and add extra oils, protein, clay, herbal extracts, honey, aloe vera juice or whatever you like for a mild, detangling shampoo with lots of hair benefits.

Gelatin Hair Protein Treatment FAQs

Here are some tips and tidbits about my gelatin protein treatment recipe:
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Concentration
If you use a whole packet of Knox gelatine (2 1/2 teaspoons, 0.25 ounces or 7.2 grams) in 1/4 cup (60 ml) water that is 12% protein. Which is a lot. And this is only if your finished product is 1/4 cup, including anything else you add.
2 1/2 teaspoons gelatine in 1/3 cup water is 9% protein.
1 1/4 teaspoons gelatine (half a packet of Knox) in 1/4 cup water is 6% protein
2 1/2 teaspoons gelatine in 1/2 cup water is also 6% protein.

Protein additives for hair products are usually recommended at a use rate of 2-5%. If the protein in your conditioner is listed before the preservatives, it is probably around 1-2%. If it is listed after the preservatives, it is probably at a concentration of 1% or less. Bear in mind that not all proteins behave the same in all hair types. Different proteins work better with different hair.
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How long do I leave it on? Leave it on your hair for about 3 minutes. Some people leave it on longer - but don't do that on your first try. There is a point at which your hair has "soaked up" or bonded with all the protein it can and beyond that, no more time will be of benefit.

Should I use heat? That's up to you. I get enough heat from wrapping my hair in plastic and letting the shower run over it a little while (not long). Heat is not absolutely necessary. But some people have better results using heat, whether by wrapping a warm, wet towel around the head, using a blow-dryer, or whatever else you can imagine. Heat speeds up reactions and helps the gelatine spread around to cover every hair (assuming you've covered your hair). I've done this treatment with no wrapping and no heat and got good results. It depends on how much bother you want!
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Gelatin made my hair too stiff (or too soft).

1. Did you rinse very thoroughly? One must rinse out a gelatine protein treatment very well.
2. Did you use too much gelatine? Some people only need 1 teaspoon, or even 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per 1/4 cup liquid (or however much you use).
3. If your hair is stiff only sometimes - leave out any vinegar or citric acid. Leave the treatment on for less time.
4. Is it too soon to do a protein treatment? Some people can use strong protein treatments regularly, but not everybody. If too-frequent treatments make your hair stiff or too soft, your hair is telling you it's too much!
5. Does your hair always respond badly to protein? Then don't use it!
6. If your hair gets stiff and tangly, try mixing oil and conditioner into the treatment, or using a rich (deep) conditioner afterwards, or just a little extra conditioner.

Should I wash my hair first?©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

This is up to you. I use it on freshly-shampooed hair or "second-day" hair which has been rinsed with water. Some people use this treatment on hair which has been washed with conditioner. There are no rules.

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Will this treatment work for me?

Only one way to find out! As a rule of thumb, fine hair, porous hair, bleached hair, damaged hair (from heat, sunlight, brushing, chlorine) can benefit from protein. Kinky hair can too - and that includes gray hair with a kinking habit. If your hair needs more support or structure ("stiffness"), protein may work for you. If your hair snaps at the slightest tug, protein may help.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013

On the other hand, if your hair strands are coarse (wide, strong, easily visible) and it has plenty of internal suport and stiffness on its own, adding more stiffness with protein may be a hair disaster; though a very low concentration of protein may be beneficial if your hair is also porous and damaged.

If you're not sure: Try a very dilute protein treatment (use 1/4 teaspoon gelatine in 1/2 cup liquid). Or try whatever strength gelatine treatment you wish on a small section of hair first.