Monday, April 28, 2014

Gelatin Protein Treatment Recipe Update


I created my gelatin protein treatment recipe in the summer of 2010 and I've been using it ever since to reduce the frizz in my wavy hair, pull the curls together, add shine and reduce breakage.

But every good recipe can stand some improving. The problem with the old recipe is distribution. It's runny. It can drip or end up all in one place.

When I was writing my posts on deep conditioning, I emphasized the importance of distributing deep conditioners including protein treatments by applying the product to hair in sections and smoothing the treatment over the section, saturating and encasing the hair in the treatment as though you are making paper maché. But I couldn't do that with the gelatin treatment being as liquid as it is.

People who leave the gelatin protein treatment on their hair for a long time face problems with drips.

So here we have it: 
New, Improved, the Thick Gelatin Protein Treatment

Same formula, but you need to make ahead and allow it to cool, so you might as well make extra and freeze it for your next 2 or 3 protein treatments.

Ingredients:
  • Unflavored gelatin(e)
  • Water - distilled is ideal
  • Optional: citric acid, ascorbic acid or vinegar to adjust pH
  • Xanthan gum (if you hate xanthan gum, use guar gum but I think xanthan gum gives a better texture and smells less offensive)

---------------------------
Measurements: 
This makes about 1 treatment.
-1/4 to 1/2 cup water (60-120 ml)
-1 packet Knox unflavored gelatin powder (0.25 oz, 7.2 grams, 2 1/2 teaspoons) or crumbled gelatine flakes or sheets 
--->Use half the gelatin for a milder treatment
-1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon xanthan gum (1/4 tsp with 1/4 cup water, 1/2 tsp. with 1/2 cup water)
-5 drops vinegar (1/16th teaspoon) or a tiny pinch of citric acid or ascorbic acid (enough to fill this typed letter "O").
Note: More acid is NOT better.  Better to leave out the acids than use too much! Too much acid will interfere with the protein's ability to bond with your hair (yes, it does a little of that).

Want to make more? 
Double the recipe, triple or quadruple it and refrigerate or freeze the leftovers. Bonus points: freeze the leftovers in an ice cube tray (silicone ice cube trays work wonderfully).
----------------------------
Directions
  1. Mix half the water, the gelatine and xanthan gum well. This will thicken. 
  2. Add remaining water, a small amount at a time and mix. There will be small clumps of xanthan gum remaining.
  3. Heat the gelatin/water/xanthan gum mixture in the microwave until it boils (in short bursts) or in a double boiler on the stove. Stir frequently.
  4. Remove from heat. The mixture will have liquefied somewhat during heating. If it's not thick enough, mix in a little more xanthan gum and re-heat if it does not dissolve completely, then remove from heat and proceed to step 5 or 6.
  5. If you are adding honey, add it now while the mixture is hot.
  6. Allow mixture to cool before adding any additional ingredients. It will thicken as it cools.

The end result is a medium-thick gel that you can smooth over your hair for excellent coverage. It rinses out well. I find that I use much less because there are no drips.

Refrigerate or freeze the leftovers. The mixture will become a rubbery solid when chilled. Put it in the microwave for about 10-15 seconds to melt it into a gel again.

Apply to clean (just-washed), damp hair. Squeeze out excess water so there are no areas where the treatment is diluted.

Leave it on how long?
  • 3-5 minutes with heat for a moderately strong protein treatment. 
  • 10-30 minutes (up to 60 minutes) with or without heat for a strong protein treatment.
  • Blow-dry for extra strong protein treatment. Apply the gelatin gel and blow dry your hair on medium to high heat until dry (don't bend it - it will be crunchy and solid). Then rinse and don't touch until your hair is less hard. If your hair is snapping off due to things like swimming or chemical-treatment damage, this method may be perfect for you!

When you're done treating your hair: Rinse, rinse, rinse! Then apply conditioner and go about your usual routine. Some people need an intense or deep conditioner following a protein treatment, even if you did add oils and conditioner to your treatment. If your hair feels rough or stiff or tangly and you rinsed very thoroughly, then you probably need to follow up a protein treatment with a deep conditioner. Or the protein was too strong... or you left it on too long.

Add-ins: 
  • 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon honey
  • yogurt (unsweetened, lowfat or full fat)
  • Full-fat mayonnaise
  • 2 to 3 teaspoons of conditioner (or more)
  • Neutral Protein Filler (protein additive from Sally's Beauty Supply)
  • coconut milk
  • use herbal tea instead of plain water
  • 2 drops to 2 tablespoons of oil - olive, coconut, avocado, grapeseed, apricot kernel, sweet almond...
  • 1 tablespoon aloe vera juice or gel (not with banana)
  • 1/4 pureed banana (in a blender). Banana baby food works well. If the banana isn't ripe enough or blended well enough, you will have banana chunks in your hair - hence the baby food. Do NOT use vinegar, citric acid or ascorbic acid with banana.
  • 1/16 or 1/8 teaspoon magnesium sulfate 



Some common gelatin protein treatment questions and answers can be found here.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Silicone Ingredient Solubility List

Science-y Hair Blog © 2011 by  Wendy M.S. is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 

Silicone Solubility List
Updated April, 2022
I compiled these lists based on information from ingredient manufacturers. If you want to know more about what it means to be a water-soluble silicone vs. water-insoluble silicone, more information follows the lists. "Water soluble" does NOT mean an ingredient will rinse off with water, so I'm trying to indicate when an ingredient is not water-rinsable.
©Science-y Hair Blog 2014
Water-soluble silicones (The raw ingredients dissolve in water and rinse off with plain water. Shampoo may or may not be necessary to remove products containing these ingredients).

Bis-peg/ppg-16/16 peg/ppg-16/16 (This is an emulsifier - not for shine or lubrication)
Dimethicone copolyol
DEA PG-Propyl PEG/PPG-18/21 Dimethicone
Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate
Dimethicone-PG Diethylmonium Chloride
Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane
Hydrolyzed Wheat protein/hydroxypropyl polysiloxane and cystine/silicone co-polymers
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Silanetriol
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol
PEG-40/PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl/Hydropropyl Dimethicone Copolymer
PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone
PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone
PEG-12 Dimethicone
PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone
PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl, Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer
PEG-7 Amodimethicone
PEG-8 Disteramonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone
PEG-33 (and) PEG-8 Dimethicone (and) PEG-14
Silanetriol
Silicone Quaternium-8

Note: If the silicone ingredient has a "PEG" or "PPG" or both in front of the silicone, it is probably water-soluble. Watch out for commas. PEG-8 Dimethicone is a water-soluble silicone. PEG-8, Dimethicone indicates either 1) a typo or 2) 2 individual ingredients, separated by a comma.

Water soluble, not necessarily water-rinsable
Silicone Quaternium-17 - This ingredient is a conditioner - a silicone that has been modified to bind to hair like conditioners do. The ingredient itself is water-soluble, but it may not rinse off with water. This ingredient is meant to bind to hair (specifically to damaged areas), it may build up or accumulate to weigh down especially build-up prone hair or lightweight hair types or it may contribute to over-softening. But in shampoos, it can offer much-needed lubrication. 
Lauryl Methicone Copolyol
Silsesquioxane - Yes, it is water-soluble, but that's for the chemists. It likely bonds to hair temporarily and may not rinse off your hair with water. Should be removed with most shampoos.

©Science-y Hair Blog 2014
Water-insoluble silicones – if they are “water dispersible” I’m calling them “insoluble” because our interest is in rinsing them out, not formulating with them. Any combination of these is still insoluble. If they are in a shampoo, they can still deposit on your hair.
"Sulfate" shampoos and most "sulfate-free" shampoos will remove water-insoluble silicone ingredients.

*Amodimethicone - special case, an amino-modified, polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself.
Aminopropyl triethoxysilane
Behenoxy Dimethicone Cetearyl methicone
Bis-Amino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone - special case, a polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself. Only experience will tell how it works in your hair.
*Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone  special case, an amino-modified, polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself.
Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone
Bis-isobutyl Peg/Ppg-20/35/Amodimethicone Copolymer 
Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone
Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone
Cetyl Dimethicone
Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone
Cyclomethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclopentasiloxane and C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Cyclohexasiloxane
Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone
Divynildimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
* Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine - Another special case. This is an amphoteric silicone-surfactant combination ingredient. It actively bonds to the hair for conditioning and to prevent dye fading and is water-dispersible. Most likely needs a silicone-free shampoo if the hair becomes too soft or too heavy with this ingredient.
Dimethiconol
Dimethiconol meadowfoamate
Di-Isostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate
Dimethicone
Diphenyl Dimethicone
Disiloxane
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
PCA Dimethicone
Phenyl Trimethicone
Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate
*Propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone special case, an amino-modified, polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself.
Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate
*Silicone Quaternium-16 - special case, a polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself.
*Silicone Quaternium-18 - special case, a polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself.
*Silicone Quaternium-22 -  special case, a polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself.
Silicone Resin Spheres
Simethicone
Simethicone Stearoxy (or Stearyl) Dimethicone
Trimethyl Silylamodimethicone  - special case, a polymer-type silicone that bonds to damaged areas and is not supposed to accumulate on top of itself.
Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Trisiloxane
Hexamethyldisiloxane
©Science-y Hair Blog 2014
Silicones which evaporate: They are not water soluble, but they're a special case. These ingredients are added to help other ingredients spread evenly and then evaporate - any remaining residue will be removed with shampoo.
Cyclomethicone
Cyclomethiconal (Cyclomethiconel)
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hexamethyldisiloxane
©Science-y Hair Blog 2014

Why do cosmetics manufacturers use silicones?  Silicones are emollients and add shine and excellent slip/lubrication (comb-ability, reduced friction and breakage). Their weight and ability to help seal moisture both in the hair shaft and out prevent frizzing in high humidity. Unlike oils, they are not likely to go rancid (oxidize) which means longer shelf life. Silicones are not bad for hair in and of themselves. Silicone ingredients can weigh some hair down. Their lubricating ability can render some wavy and curly hair flat or limp. If you use shampoo, conditioner and leave-in products containing silicone - that can become difficult to remove. Using heavy-handed applications of silicone anti-frizz serum can make your hair a little more water-repellant and slick than nature intended. 

Whereas it takes a lot of other ingredients that provide slip like cationic conditioners (maybe 4-10%) to get the job done, one needs only 1-2% silicones to provide the same benefits. Besides that, water-insoluble silicones have been demonstrated to be washed out by ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate and/or cocamidopropyl betaine shampoos (removing approximately 90% silicone residue). Cationic conditioners by definition accumulate on (bond to) hair and resist rinsing or shampooing hair and this can cause a dull look or matted feeling residue if they are overused. I’m not making that up, it’s actually something that cosmetics formulators try to manage in at least some of their formulations so their products don’t weigh your hair down or leave it feeling coated and matted.

How do water-soluble silicones come into being? Water is polar – it has a positive and negative side to the molecule. Oils (like silicones) are nonpolar. In your first week of high school chemistry you probably learned that “like dissolves like.” Polar water dissolves polar “other things” and non-polar oils dissolve other non-polar things. You know this from observing oil-based salad dressing too. But if we use some cosmetic chemistry voodoo and attach (via esterfication) a polar substance like polyethylene glycol or a protein to a nonpolar silicone – voila, a useful cosmetic ingredient that now has the ability to be carried away by water more easily because one part of it truly is now water-soluble.

What does the “PEG” and the number mean? It’s important! Let’s say you have PEG-12 Dimethicone. That means that 12 molecules of polyethylene glycol were reacted with 1 molecule of dimethicone. The higher the number, the more soluble the oil (and silicone is essentially an oil). That’s because there are more of the water-soluble ingredients -the “PEG,” relative to the water insoluble dimethicone. For example, PEG-8 Dimethicone is slightly less water-soluble than PEG-12 dimethicone, which is slightly less water-soluble than PEG/PPG 15/20 dimethicone.

Are the "water-soluble" silicones really water-soluble? Yes, to a point. But do they rinse off your hair when embedded in a hair product? Try it and see. These silicones don't exist alone - they are accompanied by other ingredients in hair products. Some ingredients in a product are going to stick to your hair no matter what. It may not be the water-soluble silicone that is to blame, but all the ingredients in a formula together. If your hair accumulates build up from everything under the sun, you might notice some limpness if you don't use some sort of cleanser after using a water-soluble silicone-containing product. Here is a handy trick to find out what rinses off easily. Smear some of the product on a smooth, clear glass. Let it dry completely. Then try to rinse it off with water or water and a little gentle rubbing with your finger. Does it rinse off completely and leave no greasy smear? Hair can bond with products more so than can glass, so this is not 100% reliable - just a quick-and-dirty test.


 ©Science-y Hair Blog 2014