If all the bond-repair products leave you scratching your head (lame pun, I am aware): Through the wonders of Chemistry, plus a generous dose of DIY graphics and animations, I have you covered.
If you're a hard-core chemistry fan, don't scrutinize my ball-and-stick models, etc. too closely. I took some artistic license to make up for my lack of artistic talent and short attention span.
Bond-repair products can be real game-changers for damaged hair. But I think it's easier to make dispassionate assessments (not get sucked in by labels and advertising) of products if you have an understanding of what is happening, and where it is happening.
Hi Wendy, I'm a guy with short (5 - 7 cm) wavy hair and I frequently straighten my hair with a flat iron at 180°C (356°F), having previously used a heat protectant spray. Over time my hair started to look damaged, so I decided to use a bond repair treatment.
ReplyDeleteEverybody seemed to talk wonders about Olaplex and, to my surprise it did nothing to my hair. However, I tried the L'Oreal Bond repair products with citric acid and I was surprised because a cheaper product gave better results than Olaplex (not that I'm not aware that cheap haircare products can be as good, it's just it surprised me).
I think it's because heat styling works by breaking the temporary hydrogen bonds with heat, pulling the hair in the desired shape and letting new temporary bonds to form to hold the shape. And citric acid works by making more of these bonds including ionic bonds because it has both hydrogen and ionic bonding sites.
Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, the active in Olaplex, is claimed to reconnect the disulfide bonds.
So my theory is that I didn't notice that much of a difference because heat styling damages different bonds that other straightening methods such as thio based treatments. So Olaplex couldn't fix them because they weren't damaged in the first place.
Does that make any sense?
And if you could recommend other aftercare treatments for frequently heat styled hair, I'd be grateful.
Also, do you think a perm or a keratin blowout would benefit me? I'm worried about doing a perm and once my hair grows a bit the non-treated part will be wavy and look weird, and everywhere I check it says these treatments should be done every 3 months minimum. But I don't know if that 3 months period is better suited for the longer lenghts women usually have and if I can get away with doing it more frequently due to my shorter hair length.
Thanks in advance. And keep up the good work!
Hi Sam - Olaplex isn't for everybody. The formula and your expectations matter as much as any single active ingredient. I'm going to shift gears from focusing on bonds to formulation. ---- What you'll get from the L'Oreal bond repair line is product that works very well in (or despite) hard water. It emphasizes delivering slipperiness in both wet and dry hair. It adds hydration, protects against heat-damage. There is a greater emphasis on a smooth-slippery end-feel than Olaplex. Perfect for straightening hair. ---- Olaplex probably does not repair disulfide bonds (I have a post about some lab testing that was done with Olaplex and another product). It's a rather different formula than L'Oreal. It's less slippery. Its bond-repair active ingredient is not necessarily hydrating like the Glycerin is in L'Oreal. In the "bond-repair" department, it's all going to be about which product seems to work well for your hair, in your climate and water, etc. A product that uses hydrating and organic-acid bond repair ingredients in a slippery base worked well for you. That's good information to have - a "natural experiment" (meaning you tried Olaplex and L'Oreal, you got a result, now you're filling in the "why"). --------------- A Brazilian blowout or keratin straightener will smooth your hair. When absorbed through the skin, those can have some systemic effects. There's a cost-benefit analysis to do there. A perm is often more damaging than a Keratin or Glycolic straightener - so you're still left with a "damage-control" issue, like with heat-styling. If you want to reduce wave (straighten) with a perm, that's a discussion to have with a stylist to see whether they feel confident doing that. Permed hair needs styling too. It's one of those situations where you draw up your lists of "pros" and "cons," Including daily effort, and see what wins. Bond-repair products give people who heat-style (or use chemical processes) a great tool keep hair healthy. Many of the leave-on bond repair products in this list (last one on the page) are also heat-protectants. https://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2024/03/hair-bonding-product-list-and-more.html
DeleteAnd this page has a list of heat protectants as well. Sometimes sprays are a little drying if they contain alcohol. Or don't cover as well as a cream or conditioner. https://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/how-hot-is-too-hot-for-healthy-hair.html
Exactly, I couldn't have described it any better. My hair feels more slippery and I love it. Everybody seems to complain a lot due to residue or the hair weighting down when using conditioners with silicones. And I feel kinda alienated in this regard because conditioners hardly make my hair feel nicer. And the ones that do won't last long. I have an oily scalp so I have to wash my hair every single day. And because I flat iron and style it, I have to use products like pomade or texturizing powder to hold it. And with those I can't skip a wash day either bacause otherwise my scalp is itchy the following day. I've tried many hair masks and deep conditioners, and I've tried to leave them for 30 minutes, but still no luck. One thing that makes a difference is applying them in the morning instead of at night. But I don't like waking up half an hour earlier just to have that effect. Do you know any conditioner or any other product that would fulfill my needs?
DeleteThe heat protectant spray I use is the tresemme keratin smooth one. In fact, I decided to use it because I saw it in your post :) But I'll try to give creams a try
And when you say keratin treatments can have some effects when absorbed, you're saying so because of formaldehyde, right? I'm a bit worried about that, too. That's why I mentioned as a second option doing a perm. What I want to achieve by doing a perm is to reduce the amount of heat styling and making the styling easier to do. I have a question though, and I'm afraid it's a silly one haha. But if I got a perm, and I used a bond-repair product, wouldn't that be counterintuitive? If I fix the bonds of my permed hair wouldn't that make the duration of the treatment shorter and make me need to do it more frequently and thus damaging it even more?
If you haven't tried a product with protein, you might give that a try. I like the SoapBox "Let's Bond" which is a conditioner/strengthening treatment. BondBar's pre-wash spray does some power-hydration in a quick step (not protein). You might like Garnier Whole Blends Honey Treasures conditioner - the honey is very hydrating. GVP Conditioning Balm is a product that people with lower porosity hair often like for its intense softening without a lot of oils. Because your hair is not very long or color-treated, it probably behaves more like lower-porosity hair, which can be difficult to condition. ----- You can steam in a conditioner - like with a facial steamer (also comes in handy when you catch a cold) to make it more effective and work faster. Sounds improbable, works wonders.
DeleteKeratin treatments - even the ones without Formaldehyde (i.e. with Glyoxylic acid) seem to have the potential to cause problems like kidney damage. Even in healthy young people. Obviously not everybody. But these products are fairly new, and we've only scratched the surface of understanding their systemic effects from topical use. There may be some genetic susceptibility determining who is more at risk of that. As yet, we don't know who or why. ----
Perms do break some disulfide bonds in hair during the first step. The second step applies an oxidant ("neutralizer") to force them to re-form quickly. Once re-formed, they stay that way. But only *some* bonds in hair occur between sulfur groups. Bond-repair products mostly work on those other ionic and hydrogen bonds, so no worries there. That was my initial "huh?" query about Olaplex's claim that it repaired disulfide bonds, but could also be used during perms. They still discuss disulfide bonds on their website, but don't claim to repair them any longer, as far as I'm aware.
Regarding perms, the skill and confidence of the stylist matters a lot. If they do lots of perms, you're probably in good hands. Perms are great when they're not over processed, and when the rod-size is chosen just right.
Hi Wendy, it's me again! After waiting for my hair to grow up a little bit more, I've scheduled an appointment with a salon to permanently straighten my hair. Do you remembr we talked about how I was worried about formaldehyde with keratin blowouts, and that I'd like a Japanese blowout? Well, the hairdresser didn't specify what kind of straightening method she'll use. I asked her if it had formaldehyde, and she said that all of their products are formaldehyde free, and that the salon is well ventiladed so no issues for me. That answer kinda sounded strange to me, especially because she didn't say what technique she'd use. I searched if a keratin blowout without formaldehyde is possible, and if I understood correctly even though there are products in the market without formaldehyde, those may contain chemicals such as glyoxylic acid which releases formaldehyde when heated up. So now I'm worried that the hairdresser may not fully understand this, and that she may have the misconception that just becuase it doesn't have formaldehyde it's safe. Or maybe what I read online is wrong? What are your thoughts? Could you tell me what chemicals that are used in straightening products release formaldehyde when heated? Or at least which ones are guaranteed to only be used in keratin blowouts? That way I could ask her to look for those in the ingredient list.
DeletePS, I tried to use the conditioners you told me about, but sadly I'm in the EU and those aren't sold where I live. But as you said I should try a product with protein, I tried the elizavecca cer 100 protein treatment, and so far my hair is super silky yay!!!! :D
Hi Sam! Hairstylists are well trained in how to use their products and services, but they rely on their suppliers for chemical safety information. A manufacturer can claim a product does not contain formaldehyde if none was added. There would need to be additional regulations in place for formaldehyde-releasing ingredients to be disclosed. ---- All hair "smoothing" products will probably release formaldehyde. Keratin, Brazilian, Japanese... Ventilation is very important - but the stylist and client are still exposed. You'd need the up-to-date product labeling. Looking for Formaldehyde, Formalin, Methylene glycol. Glyoxylic acid can be converted to Formaldehyde. Glycolic and Glyoxylic acid can be absorbed systemically and transformed into oxalic acid - which can harm the kidneys in rare cases. ---- ----A "lye" or Sodium hydroxide relaxer is very effective at straightening hair, but it can irritate the skin, and it takes a lot of skill to get it right and not cause too much damage or "over-straighten." No formaldehyde, though. A permanent wave is also formaldehyde free.
DeleteThe Elizavecca product is a great compromise - silky hair is easier to style. There are some straightening creams that can do a lot of the work for you. Like Color Wow's One-Minute Transformation Styling Cream. Check into those - I know there are some good versions in the EU market, but you'd want to read reviews and ingredients carefully. Maybe find some travel or trial-sized products?
Well, I tried to talk to the hairdresser. She said I would get a Japanese straightening, but I told her about my worries and first she told me that "all products have keratin in them and it's silly to avoid it". I explained to her that it's not keratin itself what I'd like to avoid, but formaldehyde based straightening methods that are called keratin or Brazilian blowouts. She then insisted that their products have no folmadehyde. I then asked her if she could tell me the ingredient list of the products she uses to straighten hair, and she said she has no access to it..... How is that even possible? I asked her why and she said the bottles have no ingredients list and I asked her the brand and she told me they have no labelling, and that the bottles come from Japan...... So I told her I'm not interested in getting a perm done by her. I honestly couldn't trust her. How can she deny her clients access to the ingredient list? I don't even think that's legal. And if it's true she has no access to them, it's even worse because she may be telling people they're getting a Japanese straightening while in reality it's a Brazilian blowout..... I'm speechless
DeleteI contacted another salon, and they kindly told me the product they use and the ingredient list. They use the Schwarzkopf Strait Styling Glatt Staightening Cream and Neutralising Balm. Here's the ingredient list:
Straightening cream: Aqua (Water, Eau), Ammonium Thioglycolate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Hydroxide, Ammonium Bicarbonate, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Laureth-23, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethanolamine, Etidronic Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol
Neutralizer: Aqua (Water, Eau), Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogen Peroxide, Etidronic Acid, Dimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-37, Ceteareth-30, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dimethiconol, 2,6-Dicarboxypyridine, PPG-1 Trideceth-6, Citric Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Cyclomethicone
So judging by the ingredient list, is this a thio based straightening method free from formaldehyde and other formaldehyde releasers?
I haven't flat ironed or heavily styled my hair for a month now. I want it to be as less damaged as possible for the day I take the perm. The only thing I kept doing from my old routine is using the L'Oreal bond repair line I talked you about. When I use it I feel my hair gets stronger for a few days. It's longer now, and it's harder to dry too. When it was shorter I would let it air dry or I'd gently tap it dry it with an old t-shirt. But that doesn't work now, so I have to blow dry it, but the cold setting at the lowest fan speed gets the job done.
The Schwarzkopf Strait Styling Glatt Staightening Cream and Neutralising Balm looks like "perm" ingredients to me. A perm won't make hair smooth, but it will straighten out curl. Whereas the smoothing treatments you mentioned do some de-frizzing as well.
DeleteSo a completely different direction to go in - or something to add if the perm leaves your hair straighter-but-frizzy is a hair gloss or glaze. There are "clear" ones as well as colored ones. These are at-home treatments that are easy to use. They are temporary - lasting for quite a few washes. They add shine and have a smoothing effect on frizz. Keep it in mind. Good luck! -W
I've never heard of hair glosses or glazes. Can you recommend me one to use in case my hair gets frizzy after the perm?
DeleteHi Wendy. Remember our conversation about how I was going to get my hair permanently straightened in a salon that used the schwarzkopf styling glatt? Well.... I went to the salon and it didn't turn out to be good. When they washed my hair it wasn't as straight as I expected. But now 2 days have passed and my hair went from curly to wavy. It's like it was relaxed instead of being straightened. My bangs are as curly as before. I honestly don't know what went wrong. But I read the leaflet of the styling glatt and it says the hair must be flat ironed after washing the neutralizer and the hairdresser definitely didn't do that. Maybe that was the reason, or maybe it was underprocessed... They did wait the time specified in the leaflet for the two steps. Maybe mine needed more time.... I don't know. There are two strengths available and they used the strongest one.
ReplyDeleteIs this result expected? Because I thought my hair would turn pin straight. The styling glatt isn't marketed as a relaxer, but as a perm solution. Could it be that my hair is "too resistant"??
Also, I'm considering doing the treatment next time by myself, with a different product for sure. But I don't know if I should wait a couple of weeks first. My hair honestly doesn't feel damaged. But maybe it just doesn't have visible damage but it is damaged in some way. How long do you think I should wait to try it again? And do you know of any home kit that works well and makes hair go pin straight and that is avaliable in the EU? And if the instructions are geared torwards men that would be a plus. I've never done this and if the instructions are explained for long hair I may not be able to know how to proceed.
I even had purchased a hair gloss just like you said in the case my hair would be frizzy :( But like I said, it has no visible signs of damage.
Thanks.
Hello Sam, It sounds like your hair may have needed a longer processing time, it probably was resistant. But also - the flat iron step is important! If you can afford it, the best thing to do might be to go back to the salon and ask if it can be re-done because you wanted a smooth, evenly straight result. Perhaps see a different stylist. They are more familiar with the process and know how to avoid over-processing. ----
ReplyDeleteIf you decide to re-treat your hair on your own, you need to give it very good care in the meanwhile. Going into the next treatment, your hair is more porous (less resistant). Even if it doesn't act porous or feel porous - the protective layer has been removed and some internal changes have happened. You know that because your hair is wavy now and no longer curly. Right now is the time when bond-repair products will set your hair up in better condition. My list of products is linked here, products with protein are good options. https://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2024/03/hair-bonding-product-list-and-more.html
This set of instructions (in the following link) makes the most sense to me for the order things are shown, based on how perms work. https://www.wella.com/professional/en-EN/look-page/straight-perm#/?_k=8l0xc8
1) The first solution of a perm breaks some of the structural bonds in hair, so that it can be re-shaped. For a curly perm - everything is done to hair on rollers to provide the shape. 2) Then that solution is rinsed away. At this point - the hair is weakened and ready to be re-shaped. 3) For a straight perm like you want, you must get the hair straight in order to have a straight result when the Neutralizer is applied. The Neutralizer re-builds the bonds that will keep the straight shape. The Neutralizer is the step that makes the straight shape permanent. The instructions in the link I posted show drying, then flat ironing the hair *before* applying the neutralizer.
Any perm kit for making curly hair, can be used to straighten hair. The problem is that the solutions are liquid and runny. It's a little messy. In the early 2000s, straight perms were popular, and there were more cream products available to use at home, which were easier to apply - like the Schwarzkopf product. Now the straight perms are mostly available at salons.
If you do this - you must be very careful not to over-process and damage your hair, because it has already been processed. Use the timing indicated on the instructions. Afterwards, you'll need to give it extra good care with strengthening products or deep conditioners.
OK, if I understood correctly what I read online, ammonium thioglycolate converts disulphide bonds to sulphhydryl groups so they can be mechanically relaxed and then an oxidizing agent oxidize the thioglycolate. This brings some insights about what could have gone wrong because the hairdresser didn't use a flat iron at all.
DeleteInterestingly, the technical manual of the schwarzkopf strait styling glatt states that the flat iron has to be used after rinsing the neutralizer. This is pretty confusing, and I don't know if it's an errata or not. But from what I read about how AT works, doing the flat ironing after the oxidizing agent makes no sense at all. This may be the reason why the hairdresser didn't use the flat iron before the neutralizer. The technical manual can be found here: https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/219190_SKP_19_House_Of_Perm_GLATT_Salesfolder_V5a
Using a perm kit marketed for making curly hair is a great idea. If I have a hard time looking for a straightener product I'll definitely go in that direction. But I like the Wella product you linked. I'll have a talk with the hairdresser and if I see they're not confident enough, I'll go on my own, wait for my hair to grow a bit (maybe 12 weeks) and use the wella straightener. The problem with those products is that manufacturers refuse to sell them to the final consumers. They only distribute them to salons and professionals but I think if I search a bit I'll be able to get my hands on it.
Another problem is that I've never applied those kind of treatments to my hair before. My next step was to dye my hair with a demi permanent hair dye, to minimize the damage of a permanent or semipermanent dye. Maybe in the meanwhile I could use the demi permanent dye at least to practice applying those treatments. I admit that I'm a bit clumsy and I don't know if I'll be able to apply it to the back of my head with two mirrors. But the worst thing that could happen with the demi dye is that I can stain my skin, so I could use it to practice a bit.
And regarding looking for a different stylist, the problem is that most salons I've contacted to either refuse to disclose the product they use for the treatment, or they market the treatment as a permanent one, only to find the product they use has formaldehyde or a formaldehyde releaser. That's not only kinda dangerous, but it's not the kind of treatment that would fulfill my needs. Because they're semi-permanent procedures that last for only a few washes, and as a guy with short hair and oily scalp I can't afford skipping washes for more than a few days.
Maybe I could also have a talk with the hairdresser I went to and ask them to use a product I bring to the salon that I buy (the wella one for example). Or I could do that, but asking a different person. But I'm not going to lie. These kind of bad experiences I get make me want to figure things on my own in order not to depend on others. I may sound harsh, and I know it's human to make mistakes but every time I've wanted to achieve something I'm better off alone rather than asking for help (with my acne, for example). Those years of bad experiences add up and I can't help but to reflect them nowadays. In an ideal world, misinformation and bad practices wouldn't exist and hairdressers and even people in general would be as insightful as you yourself but that's sadly not the case.
Thanks for your help.
You've done your research, and you know exactly what you want. I completely understand how frustrating it is to communicate this well. Getting the communication right can take several trials. ---- It takes a perm 24-48 hours to fully neutralize. So that's why it's possible to use the flat iron *after* the neutralizer and expect it to work. The hair is still neutralizing, even after the Neutralizer solution is rinsed away. The bonds are re-forming over time, not instantly. That flat iron is necessary to have the hair neutralize in the straightest shape.The Wella instructions still make more sense to me for the straightest result. I would want the hair straight before applying the neutralizer solution, even if it meant drying it twice. Yes, hair in that condition is delicate, that's why you do good hair care before and after the straightening.
ReplyDelete----- I can imagine salons tend to be a little defensive, as the internet is filled with rumors and information about ingredients and products that isn't always accurate. And could hurt the salon or stylist if they say the "wrong" thing.
---- You are looking for a Thioglycolate straightening cream. I'm seeing Liscio brand, and Yuko G Straight as cream-based options that would be easier to apply.
----- The cream straightening products can be applied with a plastic brush or comb. That makes them so much easier to apply yourself.
Meanwhile, give your hair all the good care you can. I hope to hear from you at some point that you got exactly the result you were hoping for!
I contacted the salon. They say they'll do the treatment again next Wednesday. Isn't it a bit soon? I hope they know what they're doing. The hairdresser that did the treatment wasn't working today but I told their coworker to tell them to use a flat iron before the neutralizer this time. I hope my hair can handle it.
DeleteI think the most reasonable thing to do for the next treatment, if they agree to do the flat iron before the neutralizer even if the strait glatt instructions say to do it afterwards, is to completely dry the hair whilst it is in that condition, apply a heat protectant and let it dry completely and then use the flat iron, and then the neutralizer. That way at least my hair won't be too damaged by the sudden increase in temperature. Do you think this is reasonable?
I used the Elizavecca Cer 100 protein treatment I bought when you told me to try a protein product when my hair felt the same after using conditioners. Well, that's no longer the case! My hair loves conditioners more than ever. And it feels nicer when using the L'oreal bond repair products. Some other products I own no longer work, though. I was expecting this, now that my F layer is damaged I guess I need the charged conditioning ingredients usually present in products marketed for damaged hair.
And yes, you can count on that. I'll let you know if I finally get the result I'm hoping for.
Thanks
I've known people to go back and have a perm re-done within a week of the original perm. And it turned out fine.
DeleteYour plan to ask them to flat iron before neutralizer fits best with how a perm works. I'm not sure that products should be applied to the hair between the perm solution and neutralizer - any product may interact with the neutralizer in unexpected ways. It's a risk! But the heat should be as low as possible for blow dryer and flat iron.
Keep up the good hair care and I'll be wishing good results for you!
I contacted the hairdresser. I explained to them that I believe I didn't get the results I wanted because a flat iron wasn't used. The way they replied makes me believe they felt attacked, because they claimed that they've done it for years and they have never had to use a flat iron for short hair. They said the reason may be that the product "lost its strength", or that "my cuticles were open". But that again, doesn't make sense to me. The product would have only lost its strength if it wasn't stored properly (for example at very high temperatures). Bad batches are a real thing, but I believe not using the flat iron is more plausible in this case. And regarding the open cuticles, that doesn't make sense either because open cuticles would make my hair more porous and hence I would have absorbed the product much easier and the results would have been good. At least that's my logic.
DeleteThis is the "insightful people in an ideal world" I talked you about. I had the feeling they made up those excuses in order not to accept not using a flat iron could be the cause. I didn't even blame them, I just mentioned it as a suggestion to get the straightest possible result.
Ok, then I won't suggest using a hair protectant. I guess drying the hair would suffice to lower the damage done by the flat iron before the neutralizer? Or maybe the neutralizer would be easier to apply on damp, towel dried hair, so drying it completely would reduce how easy it is to apply it?
And sorry for the rant but I needed to tell someone who would understand it!
The main thing that needs to happen is to keep the hair straight throughout the process, and for the hair to be processed for the right amount of time. The Perm/Alkaline solution (the first one) breaks some bonds in hair - re-shaping the curl pattern starts in this step. The second solution (Neutralizer) re-forms those bonds in the new shape. - That's the chemistry of it. Each brand will have their own instructions. Schwarzkopf's instructions are probably the best ones to settle on for the stylist's comfort level. All of the instructions.
DeleteMaybe it was a bad batch last time. Maybe your hair is especially perm-resistant. Maybe it did not process long enough - which wouldn't result in enough re-shaping in the curl pattern. Hair styling is an art. Except when it's chemistry. But I'd argue that even chemistry is an art! Those of us who do work in labs know that sometimes our usual protocols won't work, and we have to modify our protocols. We're not thrilled when that happens, but we become better at our jobs when we solve problems, rather than have everything work out easily. The same applies to salons.
These are always difficult communications to navigate in real time!
Hi Wendy, I went to the salon yesterday to redo the treatment. My bangs are at least straighter. I still have subtle waves in the sides of my head. Alas, it's not the pin straight I was expecting. It's not a disappointing result, but it's not a satisfactory one either (at least for me). But now that my hair is straighter, maybe I will be able to style it with a flat iron more easily without needing high temperatures. The stylist used the strength "1" of the styling glatt, appropriate for naturally curly or colored hairs. Their reasoning is justified, because the first time they used the "0" strength for very curly or resistant hair. Maybe it would have been better to use zero again, but I understand they didn't want to take the risk. When they used the flat iron they didn't completely dry my hair. Yeah.... I could even hear it cracking. Surprisingly it looks healthy, but I bet that using trichoscopy it would look like bubble hair.
ReplyDeleteThis is not a defeat, this experience gave valuable information about my hair: it is quite resistant, it needs heat to be straightened and if proper care is given it's able to take two treatments. Maybe, no matter if I try going to a different salon or if I finally resort to doing things on my own, this info can help me.
There's also a thought I've had during the whole process. It is about hair elasticity. Many online websites state that hair elasticity is determined by the corte, the medula, the moisture levels.... But wet hair for example, when hydrogen bonds have a weaker bond, can be stretched more. But what I found surprising is that one technique used to test if the thio treatment is working is checking if the hair can be stretched double its size! Doesn't this mean hair elasticity is mostly determined by the bonds that hold together the protein, or at least to a greater extent compared to the cortex, the medula or the moisture level?
Glad you got a result moving you in the direction you wanted to go. And you learned a lot along the way, so that's quite a win!
DeleteHair elasticity during a chemical re-shaping service defies the usual concepts of hair-elasticity. Healthy hair tends to stretch a certain amount before breaking (more when wet than dry). But when we expose proteins to a high pH, we change the behavior of the proteins. A certain percentage of structural hair-bonds have been destabilized by the perm solution. In that state (with the high pH perm solution applied) - hair is likely to stretch differently than usual. Very damaged hair often over-stretches like that too. Even from sun-damage. Because elasticity is a feature of the fiber's structural integrity, the moisture-levels, the curvature all together.
That being said - with a curly perm you don't stretch-test the hair for processing-time. You test the shape, which is much more intuitive and probably gives us the best information about the end-result.
If your hair stretches like that (twice its length!) in the coming weeks or months - you'll know you need to use some protein or a bond-repair product to stabilize the proteins. Those bond-repair (or protein) products do re-stabilize enough bonds in hair to provide structural support. They also provide extra hydration, which further maintains good elasticity.
Hi Wendy. I washed my hair today, and my hair went back to wavy 😞
ReplyDeleteI contacted the stylist because they told me to let them know how it went, and when I told them I was told my hair is, in their own words, "impossible to have pin straight". And that they couldn't do anything and that they believe nothing, absolutely nothing in this world will permanently straighten my hair. That felt like a punch in the gut.
I'm starting to get a bit tired of this. Especially because my hair was straight before washing and I was absolutely happy about it. I'm lost, I just don't know what to do.
Do you think the styling glatt is not for me? It is a thio treatment, and they used a flat iron. Isn't that basically a Japanese blowout? The one that is supposedly one of the strongest?
I've also read that lye relaxers are stronger than Japanese blowouts. But like I said, I don't know if the styling glatt should be conseder a Japanese blowout. Is it the same? Are lye relaxers stronger than Japanese blowouts?
Oh, there's one more thing I wanted to ask you. I remember there was an entry in your blog that explained how time and tenoerature affected conditioner performance, and it had a graph showing the comparison between heat and no heat, and how after 30 min the absorption started to be more lineal. Maybe I'm mistaken and saw it somewhere else? But I'm pretty sure I read it in your blog and in fact it was how I disovered the blog.
Hi Sam - That is disappointing, especially after going back a second time! This is like a Japanese straightening treatment (if it's a "Thio" treatment). Your hair should be straight at the end - and stay straight - or nearly straight. Styling will always be required to get hair smooth and pin-straight. It could still get poofy in humidity, but straight-and-poofy. Because straightening perms were popular in the early 2000s, your best luck would probably be with a stylist in their mid 40s or older! Somebody who may have done a lot of those back in the day and knows how to adapt based on how hair is behaving.
ReplyDeleteThat being said, some hair is difficult to perm and requires extra processing time (which is where expertise is important).
Lye relaxers are stronger than perms. But at this point - a relaxer might be a terrible idea in terms of causing too much damage to chemically-processed hair.
Your hair will probably be more amenable to straightening balms and straight-styling now than before. That's a hopeful thought.
You're right about heat making conditioners more intense - that information is here somewhere. And also time left on. There are 3 ways to make a conditioner more "intense." 1) More time on hair. 2) Add heat. 3) Use a conditioner with oils for better adherence to hair. Any combination of those will work. If you add heat, you can do a shorter time - but expect a more conditioned result than without heat. Without heat - leave on for more time for a more-intense result. After 30 minutes of conditioning, the ability of conditioner to adsorb/bond to hair plateaus.