This is essentially a recycled and updated post from 2011. Recycling is good, right!?
Science-y Hair Blog © 2011 by Wendy M.S. is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
Science-y Hair Blog © 2011 by Wendy M.S. is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0
Build-up from hair products is usually 2 things:
- Oily residues like actual oils and butters, creamy ingredients like Cetyl alcohol and other emollient ingredients.
- Cationic ingredients that bond to the hair. When they're good, they're very good and when there is too much, you feel "build-up."
Here I’m referring to 2 classes of chemicals: Quaternary cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. First off, cationic means something has a net positive charge (+). Hair has a net negative charge at the pH environment in which it usually exists (somewhere between pH 4.5 and 5 is average). Opposites attract (positive and negative) when it comes to hair and conditioner. More-damaged hair (the ends, heat-styled, sun-damaged, chemically relaxed, permed, highlighted) has more negative bonds and will bond with or "adsorb" more cationic ingredients. But it also loses them more quickly.
Low porosity hair has fewer negative charges to adsorb conditioners and cationic ingredients. It is also more likely for the owner of low-porosity hair to notice / experience "product build-up."
Quaternary cationic surfactants (and cationic polymers) are the real “conditioners” in hair and skin products. They bond to hair (and skin). Cationic polymers in styling products (Polyquaternium-4, for example) also bond to hair to form a film that provides hold and humidity resistance.
Build-up tends to look like you'd rubbed your hair with a balloon (static-y, flyaway, self-repellant). Or it can look sticky and stringy. Or dull and matted. Wavy, curly or coily hair might not pull together in it's proper curl pattern when you have build-up. Straight hair might get stringy or increase in volume (not necessarily in a good way).
Quaternary Cationic Surfactants:©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Quaternary cationic surfactants include ingredients such as:
Behentrimonium chloride, Behentrimonium methosulfate, Cetrimonium bromide, Cetrimonium chloride, Stearalkonium chloride, Dicetyldimonium chloride, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
Most of these are not water soluble, but water-solubility doesn’t much matter because they’re bonding to your hair. Imagine magnets – the positive end of the quaternary cationic surfactant bonds to the negative hair. The thing is, it’s a pretty tight grip. Think giant magnets. Electromagnets that are used in scrap metal yards. This is known as “substantivity” in cosmetics chemistry.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Having these ingredients on your hair is not a problem in itself. Not unless you experience symptoms of build-up. Shampooing is not always a solution because most shampoos are based on anionic (negatively charged) surfactants. And now you’re saying, wait, that should mean that it should remove the cationic stuff because it has a negative charge and opposites attract. Yes! But the hair holds the cationics too tightly. The shampoo (anionic) may not be a big enough “magnet” to remove the cationic (conditioner or polymer).©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Cationic Polymers:
Cationic Polymers include polyquaterniums (Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, for example). These ingredients are very often water-soluble, but that’s not terribly relevant because they also get a tight grip on hair and so they don’t rinse off. Polyquaterniums are used in shampoos and conditioners to provide lightweight conditioning and frizz-prevention and used in hair styling products because they form stiff films over the hair to provide firm hold. They can add body to fine hair because of their hold/fixative-providing and film-forming behavior.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Polyquaternium 4 gives strong hold and may be easier to remove than Polyquaternium 10 or 11, in other words, it is more possible to pry it off with water and a detergent. Certain proteins and quaternary cationic surfactants can bond more firmly with hair than does polyquat-4. There are many other Polyquaterniums (with other numbers following them -7, 37, 44, 67…), all of which will bond more or less tenaciously to hair. Polyquaternium 10 may also be easier to remove than some of the others, there is even a “low residue” version of this polymer available, although it is doubtful that this distinction would be revealed in an ingredient list.
Concentration is important. The more polymer there is, the more the possibility for build up. If you are looking at a product with 20 ingredients and a Polyquaternium is ingredient #15 or #30, there isn’t much in there. But if it is ingredient number 3 or 4, there is more present. And even that is misleading because the actual percentage could be pretty low. So it’s best to judge by whether or not you get consistently good results from a product.©Science-y Hair Blog 201
How to Deal With Build-Up
There are 2 ingredients to look for in a shampoo to remove cationic build up most effectively:
Alkyl sulfates and alkyl sulfonates are anionic, and are better at removing cationic soils than other “sulfate” detergents (this has been demonstrated through controlled testing).
Look for C14-16 olefin sulfonate or...
Alkyl sulfates: Sodium lauryl sulfate and Ammonium lauryl sulfate, Sodium coco-sulfate.
These are deep-cleaning detergents, but can be diluted with water for a milder product. They are good de-greasers for removing excess oils (or silicones). The small molecular size means the product can penetrate skin and hair - so there is potential for drying and irritation. Formulation matters!!! When there is more detergent (higher concentration), the product will be more "stripping." When there are fewer mildness-increasers like humectants, or ingredients to make the product look pearly and translucent, the formula will feel less pleasant to use.
Also look for Sodium polystyrene sulfonate. This ingredient helps remove 25% more cationic soil than rinsing alone or shampooing (even with a “sulfate” shampoo). It is not a detergent.
Shampoos with the ingredients mentioned:
Chi Infra Moisture Therapy Shampoo
Nexxus Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
Pureology Safeguard Your Color Purify Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
OGX Vitamin E Shampoo (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Warren Tricomi Style Smoothing Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
- Oily residues like actual oils and butters, creamy ingredients like Cetyl alcohol and other emollient ingredients.
- Cationic ingredients that bond to the hair. When they're good, they're very good and when there is too much, you feel "build-up."
Here I’m referring to 2 classes of chemicals: Quaternary cationic surfactants and cationic polymers. First off, cationic means something has a net positive charge (+). Hair has a net negative charge at the pH environment in which it usually exists (somewhere between pH 4.5 and 5 is average). Opposites attract (positive and negative) when it comes to hair and conditioner. More-damaged hair (the ends, heat-styled, sun-damaged, chemically relaxed, permed, highlighted) has more negative bonds and will bond with or "adsorb" more cationic ingredients. But it also loses them more quickly.
Low porosity hair has fewer negative charges to adsorb conditioners and cationic ingredients. It is also more likely for the owner of low-porosity hair to notice / experience "product build-up."
Quaternary cationic surfactants (and cationic polymers) are the real “conditioners” in hair and skin products. They bond to hair (and skin). Cationic polymers in styling products (Polyquaternium-4, for example) also bond to hair to form a film that provides hold and humidity resistance.
Build-up tends to look like you'd rubbed your hair with a balloon (static-y, flyaway, self-repellant). Or it can look sticky and stringy. Or dull and matted. Wavy, curly or coily hair might not pull together in it's proper curl pattern when you have build-up. Straight hair might get stringy or increase in volume (not necessarily in a good way).
Quaternary Cationic Surfactants:©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Quaternary cationic surfactants include ingredients such as:
Behentrimonium chloride, Behentrimonium methosulfate, Cetrimonium bromide, Cetrimonium chloride, Stearalkonium chloride, Dicetyldimonium chloride, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
Most of these are not water soluble, but water-solubility doesn’t much matter because they’re bonding to your hair. Imagine magnets – the positive end of the quaternary cationic surfactant bonds to the negative hair. The thing is, it’s a pretty tight grip. Think giant magnets. Electromagnets that are used in scrap metal yards. This is known as “substantivity” in cosmetics chemistry.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Having these ingredients on your hair is not a problem in itself. Not unless you experience symptoms of build-up. Shampooing is not always a solution because most shampoos are based on anionic (negatively charged) surfactants. And now you’re saying, wait, that should mean that it should remove the cationic stuff because it has a negative charge and opposites attract. Yes! But the hair holds the cationics too tightly. The shampoo (anionic) may not be a big enough “magnet” to remove the cationic (conditioner or polymer).©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Cationic Polymers:
Cationic Polymers include polyquaterniums (Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, for example). These ingredients are very often water-soluble, but that’s not terribly relevant because they also get a tight grip on hair and so they don’t rinse off. Polyquaterniums are used in shampoos and conditioners to provide lightweight conditioning and frizz-prevention and used in hair styling products because they form stiff films over the hair to provide firm hold. They can add body to fine hair because of their hold/fixative-providing and film-forming behavior.©Science-y Hair Blog 2013
Polyquaternium 4 gives strong hold and may be easier to remove than Polyquaternium 10 or 11, in other words, it is more possible to pry it off with water and a detergent. Certain proteins and quaternary cationic surfactants can bond more firmly with hair than does polyquat-4. There are many other Polyquaterniums (with other numbers following them -7, 37, 44, 67…), all of which will bond more or less tenaciously to hair. Polyquaternium 10 may also be easier to remove than some of the others, there is even a “low residue” version of this polymer available, although it is doubtful that this distinction would be revealed in an ingredient list.
Concentration is important. The more polymer there is, the more the possibility for build up. If you are looking at a product with 20 ingredients and a Polyquaternium is ingredient #15 or #30, there isn’t much in there. But if it is ingredient number 3 or 4, there is more present. And even that is misleading because the actual percentage could be pretty low. So it’s best to judge by whether or not you get consistently good results from a product.©Science-y Hair Blog 201
How to Deal With Build-Up
There are 2 ingredients to look for in a shampoo to remove cationic build up most effectively:
Alkyl sulfates and alkyl sulfonates are anionic, and are better at removing cationic soils than other “sulfate” detergents (this has been demonstrated through controlled testing).
Look for C14-16 olefin sulfonate or...
Alkyl sulfates: Sodium lauryl sulfate and Ammonium lauryl sulfate, Sodium coco-sulfate.
These are deep-cleaning detergents, but can be diluted with water for a milder product. They are good de-greasers for removing excess oils (or silicones). The small molecular size means the product can penetrate skin and hair - so there is potential for drying and irritation. Formulation matters!!! When there is more detergent (higher concentration), the product will be more "stripping." When there are fewer mildness-increasers like humectants, or ingredients to make the product look pearly and translucent, the formula will feel less pleasant to use.
Also look for Sodium polystyrene sulfonate. This ingredient helps remove 25% more cationic soil than rinsing alone or shampooing (even with a “sulfate” shampoo). It is not a detergent.
Shampoos with the ingredients mentioned:
Chi Infra Moisture Therapy Shampoo
Nexxus Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
Pureology Safeguard Your Color Purify Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
OGX Vitamin E Shampoo (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Warren Tricomi Style Smoothing Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
Herbal Essences Tea Tree Clarifying Shampoo (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Ion Hard Water Shampoo (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Kinky Curly Come Clean (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Kenra Volumizing Shampoo (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Kinky Curly Come Clean (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Kenra Volumizing Shampoo (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
L'Oreal Ever Pure Clarifying Shampoo
Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoo (Ammonium lauryl sulfate)
Thermafuse Volume Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
Trader Joe's Refresh (Body Wash), (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Trader Joe's Tea Tree Tingle Shampoo (C 12-14 olefin sulfonate)
V05 "Normal Hair" Balancing shampoo (Sodium lauryl sulfate)
V05 Extra Body Volumizing Shampoo (Sodium lauryl sulfate)
V05 Kiwi Lime Squeeze Shampoo (Sodium lauryl sulfate)
Sources:
J. Soc.Cosmetic Chem.,43, 259-273 (September/Octobber 1992)
J. Soc.Cosmetic Cthem.,40, 205-214 (July/Augus 1989)
Removal of Cationic Buildup From Keratin Surfaces By Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Presented at PCIA Shanghai - March 2002
Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoo (Ammonium lauryl sulfate)
Thermafuse Volume Shampoo (Sodium polystyrene sulfonate)
Trader Joe's Refresh (Body Wash), (C 14-16 olefin sulfonate)
Trader Joe's Tea Tree Tingle Shampoo (C 12-14 olefin sulfonate)
V05 "Normal Hair" Balancing shampoo (Sodium lauryl sulfate)
V05 Extra Body Volumizing Shampoo (Sodium lauryl sulfate)
V05 Kiwi Lime Squeeze Shampoo (Sodium lauryl sulfate)
Sources:
J. Soc.Cosmetic Chem.,43, 259-273 (September/Octobber 1992)
J. Soc.Cosmetic Cthem.,40, 205-214 (July/Augus 1989)
Removal of Cationic Buildup From Keratin Surfaces By Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Presented at PCIA Shanghai - March 2002
I often eagerly await your posts. I was wondering if you could shed some light on high porosity hair in general and how these build ups affect hair at higher porosity.
ReplyDeleteHi Vonnluv!
DeleteHigher-porosity hair, especially if it has some coloring or heat damage or relaxing or permanent wave damage tends to "grab" easily the things that sometimes create build-up thanks to their cationic charge (conditioners, proteins, "polyquats"). That's good because those ingredients also smooth over the cuticles, sealing in moisture, preventing friction. At least with some of those same ingredients, porous hair also "lets go" of them more readily too. So build-up might be less a problem unless one is using products that just really don't agree with their hair.
It's like the more-porous (or damaged) hair is, the more accepting of conditioners and proteins and polyquats it is - but it has less ability to hang on to those things very long.
And in porous hair, you might appreciate the feeling of smoothness that you get from those products or ingredients whereas lower-porosity hair might get a coated feeling instead that is unpleasant because the surface was already smooth to begin with.
Build-up in more-porous hair might show up more as dullness or increased tangling or more "drag" between strands rather than a coated feeling. Or hair that wants to get big and stay big (not in a good way) and won't settle in with neighboring hairs in whatever way it usually does that. It really depends on the products you're using. A sudden change in hair's behavior can often indicate that a product is accumulating too much.
I hope that helps!
I heard vinegar is good to remove buildup if so how would I use it ?
ReplyDeleteHello Leo023,
DeleteVInegar is usually used as a rinse. I have some pH-measured "recipes" on this page: http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/ph-of-common-homemade-rinses.html
If it's going to help remove anything, you'd need to leave it on for a few minutes, covered, with a little heat. Vinegar is an acid, but it's not a chelating ingredient, nor a detergent, so it's ability to remove build-up is pretty limited. It can have a negative effect on some people's hair, so it's ideal to treat a test-strand with a vinegar rinse before applying it to all your hair.
Thank you for your posts, I was wondering what you think about "mud rinses" like Aztec clay as cleansers for product build up?
ReplyDeleteHello,
DeleteClay can remove some excess oils, and maybe some product residue that would easily shampoo out. But conditioner build-up and some of the really difficult-to-remove residues might not be removed by clay.
So then, what should one really use to remove build up, who doesn’t want to use sulfates?
DeleteIf you prefer to avoid C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate also, then none of the products (listed above) will be an option. You might experiment with diluted lemon juice or vinegar rinses (diluted vinegar), left on the hair for 3-5 minutes with some heat. Acidic treatments may cause the charged particles in conditioners and some styling products to lose their charge (and their grip) temporarily - in which case it may be possible to rinse some of that residue away. Acidic treatments need to be used carefully, they are usually agreeable for most hair, but once in a while, somebody's hair will be damaged by even a diluted rinse. Dilute lemon juice with 3 to 4 parts water, and vinegar should be diluted 1 part vinegar, 3 to 4 parts water as well. If one uses lemon juice or vinegar regularly (every 2 weeks, for example) - the mixtures should be more dilute than that to avoid causing damage.
DeleteWill these still effectively remove build up if I use the 1-2 tsp to 1 cup water dilution to make it milder?
ReplyDeleteThey may, but not quite as well. You'll have to experiment with the dilution, you may need the shampoo a little more concentrated to remove cationic build-up, but you don't necessarily need full-strength shampoo right out of the bottle.
DeleteHi. Will the diluted shampoo (1-2tsp shampoo in a cup of water) remove buildup? Thanks
ReplyDeleteHello WS. Reading your blogs is my latest addiction. I was wondering could you give a recipe for a diy ph balanced clarifying shampoo using black soap or castile soap?
ReplyDeleteI have not bought any black or castile soap to do this with yet. If you have pH strips, you might get a pretty close reading using castile soap diluted in distilled water and adding vinegar or citric acid.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI have recently used a gel with polyquat 4. My hair feels very dry, hard to detangle, as if I've had protein overload. I have high porosity and protein sensitive hair and recently converted to the Curly Girl method. Will 1 shampoo wash help or do I need to clarify a few times?
ReplyDeleteHello Mercedes,
DeleteUsually it takes 1-2 washes to remove residue so your hair feels like it's back to its normal self.
Also, how can I bring my hair back to healthy?? Deep condition??
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI was wondering about Apple Cider Vinegar for washing my scalp? Does this really work to remove build-up? I am currently using it (diluted with water) as a "final rinse" after co-washing and it makes my hair feel great, I really like it, the only think is co-washing has not been so great on my scalp but I don’t want to use shampoo on the regular so I was thinking I could clean my scalp with an ACV rinse. I am also wondering how often I can use ACV on my hair, or if it can cause problems down the road. Your advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eve
Hello Eve,
DeleteVinegar can help to reduce an oily look and feel in hair somewhat, and it can help with hard water minerals on your hair if you have hard water. It does seem to change the feel of conditioned hair when used as a final rinse. Vinegar is just an acid, it doesn't help remove dust and dirt and oil as well as detergents do.
Everybody's hair and skin is different. Some scalps will break out in a bumpy rash from using vinegar rinses. Some hair will be damaged right away by using vinegar and some people can use vinegar rinses weekly with no trouble. A cautious approach would be to use a low concentration of vinegar - 1 teaspoon per cup of water - and see how that works. You can use more vinegar - 1 tablespoon per cup water, but you might want to try it on a test-strand first. If you notice any changes if you're using vinegar long-term that seem to indicate your hair is having trouble, cut back on the vinegar and assess what's needed. Does your hair need some protein? Oil treatments? Deep conditioning? Good luck! W
I have low porosity hair and I was wondering what type of shampoo I can use to cleanse my scalp but doesn't contain a silicone I'm so confused because all the shampoos that I see that are clarifying shampoos contain silicones
ReplyDeleteHello!
ReplyDeleteI have a question about the schampoo "Chi Infra Moisture Therapy Shampoo". One of the ingredients is Polyquaternium-10, but how would that work if the reason for using the schampoo would be to remove build-up caused by, for example, Polyquats?
Regards Emma
Hello Emma,
DeletePolyquaternium-10 is used in the shampoo as a conditioner/detangler. It will deposit on your hair. If you're using the shampoo to remove product residue and you are adamant about removing as much as possible, then you want a shampoo without Polyquaternium-10.
But there is one huge caveat here - if you have used shampoos with Polyquaternium-10 and you have never, ever noticed anything like a residue in feel or in appearance - then don't worry about it. The only people who need to worry about "polyquat residue" are those people whose hair feels or looks weird when they use products with that ingredient.
What do I use if I want to avoid build up from all potential build up from all things; conditioners, silicone, polyquats, guar hydroxy.. I want to cleanse my scalp and hair of all build up but looking to use one product instead of many. In various postings you list shampoos with different detergents/cleansing agents. Is there one product that would work for all? Thanks
ReplyDeleteI don't know where you live or shop! So all I can say is to look at ingredient lists. Check the "Product by ingredient category" list in the tab at the top of the page, there are some products there. In some cases, like shampoos, I listed potential problem ingredients.
DeleteBut what's more important is to know that not all ingredients that can create build-up will do it for all people. And if you are somebody who gets build-up easily and you have hard water, the hard water is probably making the problem worse - a hard water shampoo or rinse might help manage that.
Thank you. My hair is curlier when I co-wash and avoid sulfates but my scalp doesn't like it. It starts flaking so I retorted back to shampoo but my curls are stretched, -and much looser. I assume the flaking is from buildup of products. I will search for a clarifying shampoo I can use occasionally. Thanks
DeleteHi! Thanks for this. What do you recommend for replacing moisture in the hair after using one of the clarifying with one of the recommended products (I'm going to try pure & basic) in a person who is extremely sensitive to conditioner buildup? I've read some mixed directions that you need to use a deep conditioner/intensive moisture, but my hair is low porosity and no matter what I do I end up with stringy, lifeless hair after conditioner.
ReplyDeleteHello Courtney,
DeleteI would probably use whatever conditioner I normally use.
Maybe leave it on a minute or two longer than usual, and/or add a bit of protein (like Neutral Protein Filler - because my hair likes that) or a bit of another humectant like aloe or honey if your hair does well with those. Protein, aloe and honey are all humectants - though they can produce very different results and humectants moisturize hair very well.
Good luck! W
What shampoo ingredients strip demi color from the hair? I tried using Desert Essence Organics Shampoo Lemon Tea Tree and in one wash it almost completely stripped the color from my color resistant grey hairs. So now I'm on the hunt for a color safe clarifying shampoo... that is more natural than say the Pureology mentioned in your post. The Pure and Basics looks like a good option, but will the citrus strip the color?... I'm assuming citrus was the culprit in the Desert Essence? Thanks in advance for your help!
ReplyDeleteHello Partchetta,
DeleteThese are the ingredients for the Desert Essence shampoo: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract *, Coco-Glucoside (Coconut/Sugar), Sodium Coco-Sulfate (Coconut), Lauryl Glucoside (Coconut/Sugar), Glycerin (Palm)*, Decyl Glucoside (Coconut/Sugar), Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Chloride, Leptospermum Petersonii Oil (Lemon Tea Tree), Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil*, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5), Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract (Maca Root)*, Yucca Brevifolia Root Extract (Yucca Cactus)*, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract (Comfrey)*, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract*, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract (Sea Kelp)*, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract*, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate-----------------------------------------
My guess is that the product was too concentrated - too high a concentration of detergent. Sodium Coco-Sulfate is fairly strong and even though there are milder detergents present - too much of any detergent makes hair swell no matter what. When hair swells, water can get in beneath the cuticles and more easily leach out color.
If you want a clarifying shampoo - just to remove excess oils and you're not concerned with removing product build-up, shampoos made for colored/dyed hair without too many conditioning ingredients should be fine. A clear product vs. a creamy looking one will usually leave your hair feeling the most clean.
For the products listed above, you might read reviews for products you are interested in and see what users have said - about hair color, about whether it left their hair dry or unmanageable (that's always "code" for it caused hair swelling). The Ouidad Superfruit Clarifying Shampoo should not be overly aggressive and stripping - but that may or may not be in your price range.
Trader Joe's Tea Tree Tingle is fairly popular. It does leave hair "squeaky clean" but it might not be as bad as the Desert Essence.
I have read mostly good things about the Pure & Basic product.
Good luck! W
Allow me to give my opinion on the color being stripped. I've colored my hair for a ton of years in different shades, it's now probably naturally 50-60% gray and colored a very pale ash blond that I obtain with a high lift formula plus an ash intensifier which helps blend the dark hairs (originally dark brown) very well with the lighter ones. I "co-wash" and I've noticed that when I use a CO to which I added some essential oils (for occasional scalp issues) the darker hairs turn brassy, meaning the blue from the ash intensifier was leached out. I learned years ago through an article for professionals by Aveda that essential oils can even break down silicones when combined with an oil such as olive; they used such an oil treatment (with heat) in salons to break down resistant silicone buildup.
DeleteI'm a non-practicing cosmetologist who started doing the "CG" method in 2002. I've rarely used shampoo since because most leach color out of the hair in one degree or another, including some supposedly formulated for color-treated hair. I could really notice the advantage of co-washing when my hair was a very light ash brown/dark ash blond with a tendency to get brassy, my color remained truer with most COs BUT one that had essential oils tended to bring out the brass. I'm aware that there are some very mild shampoos out there but they're usually the kind that don't remove buildup. Color-treated hair is highly porous by default, especially if bleached/lightened so it's much much better to use a conditioner to wash, at least most of the time.
Also, I learned years before going to beauty school through reading a book from an expert stylist that it was best to dilute most shampoos with water as most are too concentrated. This also helps with more even distribution and lessens the chance of irritating the scalp and over-drying the hair. Prior to my discovering the "CG" method I also learned that skipping one shampoo in between and just rinsing and conditioning made the hair more manageable and I suggest that for anyone who doesn't want to give up shampoo altogether.
Incidentally, I am able to remove any type of buildup from my hair using a borax solution (1 rounded tsp. dissolved in 1 C. of very hot water, then cooled to warm, worked into the hair and left on for a few min.), my water is not hard at all but I occasionally use COs with 'cones, also polyquats & quats. When I lived in S. FL where the water's hard I used "Lemon-aid" (lemon juice mixed with CO) to remove buildup, worked like a charm!
Hi, Do the ingredients in hair color (I'm using demi-color) strip hair of buildup at all? If they're strong enough to alter the cuticle, wouldn't they also interact with the tenacity of conditioners that have coated the hair strands? Jenny
ReplyDeleteHello,
DeleteIt's very possible that demi-permanent hair color does remove some residue due to the alkaline solutions of the color. But it's also possible that if you have really tenacious conditioner build-up (the kind you'd really notice), it could interfere with the color, at least a little.
Hello and happy new year! I have a question. I do color my grown roots every month and I also distribute the dye (diluted) the last 5 minutes to all over my already dyed hair to tone it. Is this dying process clarify hair?
ReplyDeleteHi there, hope 2018 has been good to you! I was wondering if polymers for hold in gels can cause a rough feeling to hair? I assume they do since the polymers are what coats the hair creating the gel cast...so please correct me if my assumption that the polymers are causing a rough feeling is wrong! Are there any types of hold ingredients I could look for that will provide great hold but not the rough feeling?
ReplyDeleteHello McStacy,
DeleteYes - some polymers do leave a rough feel in hair. PVP, PVA, many of the ingredients with "Acrylates copolymer" in their name can tend to feel rough. And it really depends on the formula as a whole, too - a stiffer gel like LA Looks or Eco Styler might feel more rough than a thinner gel like CHS Curl Keeper because the thickener in stiffer gels (carbomer) can also leave a slightly rough feel behind. Using leave-in conditioner or a drop of oil or applying gel to very wet hair or adding a splash of water to the gel once in your hair can soften that rough feel a little.
A start would be to look for gels without carbomer as a thickener. Polyquaternium-4 or Polyquaternium-11 provide a less rough hold, depending on the formula. They work very well to support a shape, but don't have that crisp crunch that we usually think of with strong-hold gels. I hope that helps! -W
What about xanthan gum, pectin, and carrageenan ?
DeleteXanthan gum, Pectin, and Carrageenan are all water-soluble and should rinse out fairly well. They can sometimes feel like they're leaving behind a little residue, but most surfactants should help remove those residues.
Deletehi,i love your blog.i have a question,polyquats and behentrimonium chloride build up the same?
ReplyDeletegreetings from latinoamerica.
Hello. Great blog, I must say!
ReplyDeleteI have a problem with a Behentrimonium Methosulfate buildup. And probably some cationic-anionic complex after I tried to remove it by washing with a shampoo with SLeS.
The problem is that I can't buy any shampoos with Sodium C14-C16 Olefin Sulfonate without Polyquaterniums here in Poland. The most common is Pq-10 in these shampoos.
"Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Decyl Glucoside, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Panthenol, Glycerin, Caprae Lac Extract, Propylene Glycol, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Polyquaternium-10, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Ethalkonium Chloride Acrylate/HEMA/Styrene Copolymer, PEG/PPG-120/10 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate, Laureth-2,sodium Benzoate, Parfum".
I know that you wrote that if it's far in INCI, then it should be fine, but I read some reviews that this smapoo makes hair heavy...
Could you tell me, please, what other surfactants can remove cationic salt buildup? You wrote that alkyl sulfates are good too. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate? Will it bond with cationic salt to hair as well?
Trying to find anything with Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate is even harder. I found a shampoo for dogs (lol) with it, but I'm not sure if it's enough concentration and if it's fine when there is also SLeS (I have bad experiences with trying to remove the cationic buildup with SLeS)
"Water (Aqua), Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Cocamide Mea, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Crosspolymer, Fragrance (Parfum), PEG-150 Distearate, Sodium Chloride, Laureth-4, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Disodium EDTA, PEG-45M, Citric Acid, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Panthenol, Argania, Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium PCA.".
Cheers,
Andrzej
Hello Andrzej. One thing you might try is using a dilute acidic rinse. The idea here is that by driving down the pH around your hair shaft, it makes it difficult for cationic conditioners to maintain their charge. If they can't maintain their charge, they can't keep their grip on your hair. An acidic rinse serves another purpose - helping manage hard water residue. Hard water residue and conditioner build-up seem to be related problems. Here is my "recipe" for citric acid and vinegar. They are not too strong so hair isn't damaged. Some people use more vinegar or citric acid, but I would always try a weaker solution first. Don't use lots of acids - it isn't safe for the eyes. ------- *Citric acid rinse: 1/16 teaspoon citric acid in 1 1/2 cups distilled water (0.3 ml citric acid in 350 ml water). Apply to clean, wet hair, cover with plastic or a treatment cap. Leave on for 1-3 minutes with some gentle heat. Rinse well and condition.*
Delete*Vinegar rinse: 1/2 tablespoon to 1 tablespoon vinegar in 1 cup distilled water. (15 ml vinegar in 230 ml water). Apply to clean, wet hair, cover with plastic or a treatment cap. Leave on for 1-3 minutes with some gentle heat. Rinse well and condition.*
Of the alkyl sulfates: C14-16 Olefin sulfonate, Sodium lauryl sulfate and Ammonium lauryl sulfate. (Sodium laureth sulfate and Ammonium laureth sulfate will not work as well). All three of those are strong de-greasers and can cause hair-swelling - and dehydration - which can cause hair to be flat or light-weight and fluffy or slippery and difficult to handle. But at the same time, if you are serious about washing off residue, a strong detergent might be just the right thing. One can always dilute a shampoo to make it behave in a milder way. Best wishes - W
Thank you for the very detailed answer! :)
DeleteYes, I tried vinegar rinse, but a little stronger (20 ml vinegar in 100 ml water) - it helps, but I feel it's not enough. Even after washing 2 times with a shampoo that contains SLeS, so it confirms your words that SLeS isn't as good at removing cationics as, f.e. Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate.
I only use DIY conditioners, which contains Behentrimonium Methosulfate. Do you think it is good idea to drive pH of the conditioner down to about 4 in order to make it less building up? Too bad that Centrimonium Chloride, which is less substansive, isn't available for purchase here in Poland.
I usually use 5% Behentrimonium Methosulfate blend (which is composed of 25% Behentrimonium Methosulfate and 75% Cetyl alcohol) in conditioners in order to have a product that does not separate and is not too heavy. Using larger amounts or adding oils to a conditioner both may contribute to a feeling of build-up.
DeleteI use 4-5% BTMS. I ordered BTMS-50, which has less Cetyl Alcohol, so it should be less substantive (I hope).
ReplyDelete"Of the alkyl sulfates: C14-16 Olefin sulfonate, Sodium lauryl sulfate and Ammonium lauryl sulfate"
What about Sodium Coco-Sulfate? As far as I remember it's sulfate blend made from all coconut fat acids (sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium caprylic sulfate, sodium capric sulfate) - will shampoo with SCS also work?
"All three of those are strong de-greasers and can cause hair-swelling"
It's a bad news for me :( I read your post about hair-swelling. I'm not going to using shampoo with alkyl sulfate daily, I just need it to remove cationic build up from time to time and just before applying Cassia obovata Leaf Powder.
Hello Andrzej, I edited the post to add that detergent. Sodium coco-sulfate is likely an alkyl sulfate. It appears that the product or blend might vary between manufacturers.
DeleteDon't worry too much about hair swelling for occasional use unless your hair is extremely delicate. For people who might want to use a shampoo with alkyl sulfates every 1-2 days, the hair swelling problem becomes a real problem that can weaken and dehydrate hair. Good luck - W
Hi! I was reading your exchange between Andrzej and got confused.
DeleteIf I understood correctly, I *can't* use as a regular shampoo one that contains C14-16 Olefin sulfonate or Ammonium lauryl sulfate, right? The thing is that I can't find in my area (Mexico) a SLS-free (dry scalp!) shampoo without either 7, 10 or Guarhydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. And I understand that in order to wash these out the formula must contain an alkyl sulfate.
For example,
Davines Replumping Shampoo
Aqua/Water/Eau, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Polysorbate 20, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum/Fragrance Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Glycol Disterate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium Edta, **Polyquaternium-10**, Coco-Glucoside, **Polyquaternium-67**, Glyceryl Sterate, Glyceryl Oleate, Sodium Chloride.
Balmain Volume Shampoo
Aqua, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, Glycerin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Silk Amino Acids, Panthenol, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, *Potassium Dimethicone PEG-7 Panthenyl Phosphate* (?), Stearyl Citrate, Lauryl Glucoside, Isostearamide MIPA, Glyceryl Laurate, **Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride**, Butylene Glycol, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Acrylates Copolymer, Benzophenone-4
The formers do not contain an appropiate surfactant to remove the potential build up caused by the polyquats, right?
Unlike, for example, these ones:
Joico Body Luxe
Water/Aqua/Eau, *Ammonium Laureth Sulfate*, Decyl Glucoside, Lauramide Mea, Pentapeptide-29 Cysteinamide, Pentapeptide-30 Cysteinamide, Tetrapeptide-28 Argininamide, Tetrapeptide-29 Argininamide, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Wheatgermamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Oat Amino Acids, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Acetamide Mea, **Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride**, Glycol Stearate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate, --Silicone Quaternium-16--, Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Citric Acid, **Polyquaternium-11**, Tetrasodium EDTA, ***Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dimethicone***, Undeceth-11, Disodium EDTA, Butyloctanol, Undeceth-5, **Polyquaternium-22**, Benzophenone-4, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Dmdm Hydantoin, Sodium Hydroxide,
Alfaparf Semi Di Lino Reparative Low Shampoo
Aqua (Water), Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, *Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate*, Cocamidopropyl Betain, Parfum (Fragance), **Polyquaternium-10**, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Benzoate, Laureth-4, Laureth-2, PEG/PPG-120/10 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate, Disodium EDTA, **Polyquaternium-7**, Lactic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Glycerin, Carnosine, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamine Lysine, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Potassium Sorbate.
Paul Mitchell Rare Oil LIGHT Volumizing Shampoo
Aqua (Water, Eau), Cocamidopropyl Betaine, *Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate*, Marula Glucoside, Polysorbate-20, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Stearyl Dihydroxypropyldimonium Oligosaccharides, **Polyquaternium-7**, **Silicone Quaternium-3**, Trideceth-12, Sorbeth Tetraoleate, Sorbitan Laurate, Decyl Glucoside, Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Arginine PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Benzoate, **Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride**,
Are any of these formulas okay? I believe I've gone through every sulfate free shampoo in my area, but if I have to check non-SLS free formulas to avoid build up (I have low porous, fine and thin hair), I will.
Also, Andrzej, did you find anything that would remove build up without polyquats? I'm too in urgent need for a good clarifying shampoo.
What are your thoughts on the sauve clarifying shampoo? is it a good way to do once a month build up cleanse? I use polyquats in some of my products, and i am prone to build up [2c/3a hair] idk my porosity, i think its low-medium.
ReplyDeleteSuave Daily Clarifying shampoo should do a good job removing product residue - unless your hair has a serious problem with Polyquaternium-10 (which it contains).
DeleteYes.
ReplyDeleteHere: https://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2016/05/detergents-which-remove-silicones.html
Hey,
ReplyDeleteunfortunately there aren't any clarifying shampoos where I live. I have been looking at other products containing the ingredients you have prescribed and only found a shower gel containing Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. I have checked all of the other ingredients and have found a water-soluble silicone (peg-7 glyceryl cocoate), these are the exact ingredients:
AQUA (WATER), AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), GLYCERIN, IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA, CHLORPHENESIN, BENZOIC ACID, TETRASODIUM EDTA, TRIETHANOLAMINE, METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE, CARICA PAPAYA FRUIT EXTRACT, BENZYL SALICYLATE, HEXYL CINNAMAL, LIMONENE, LINALOOL
Would it be safe on my hair and would it remove buildup as effectively as a clarifying shampoo?
Also I have a second question regarding what to expect with this process. I have thick wavy soft hair, but the top layer of it is completely frizzy, even though the layers beneath keep their form (wavy) and softness. I have tried everything and I do take good care of it (use pre-shampoo oiling overnight, dilute shampoo, condition and oil afterwards, air dry) Do I need to clarify more frequently in the beginning (once a week) and then reduce to once a month or do I keep it at about once or twice a month.
Thanks for the great blog, hope to hear back from you,
Salma
That should get the job done.
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeletePure & Basic has been discontinued. Can you please provide an alternative? Or can I combine Kinky Curly Come Clean and a VO5 shampoo that does not contain silicones and polyquats? I have locs and I do not want any build up in my hair. Although I don't use conditioners, I spray my scalp and the length of hair with aloe vera juice followed by a combination of rosewater and jojoba oil to help with moisture. I wash my hair weekly due to mild dermatitis on the scalp, but I can feel the oil residue after rinsing out Come Clean or Trader Joes Tea Tree shampoo from my hair. I have fine, high density, high porosity kinky curly hair. Thanks in advance for your help.
Hello Sue, Kinky Curly shampoo should do a fine job on its own. Or V05 - whichever seems to work better / fits your budget / is easier to find. For that matter - Trader Joe's Tea Tree shampoo should be good at removing product residue - I need to add that one to my list. Best wishes - W
DeleteHello, Thank you for this great post! Can you tell me what type of buildup would the "Deva buildup buster " (micellar water cleansing system) remove?
ReplyDeleteThank you!
Hello, could you please tell me what type of shampoo is best at removing polyquats? One with sulphates or one with C14-16 olefin sulfonate? Thank you.
ReplyDeleteMopTop bamboo gentle shampoo has sodium c14-16 olefin sulfonate as well. I'm encouraged to read here (and in another article) that it is effective for removing silicones and polyquaternium ingredients. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteIs the aveeno fresh blends shampoo enough to remove product build up? Is has sodium c14-c16 olefin sulfonate as second ingredient but then as the third one it has cocamidopropyl betain. Does it make the sulfonate still clarify well enough? The shampoo also contains silicones but they are all water soluble so they would wash off?
ReplyDeleteIf Sodium polystyrene sulfonate is not a surfactant, then what is it and how does it work? Does it remove oils from the hair as well or not?
ReplyDeleteI read here that cetrimonium chloride doesn't leave build up, what do you think? https://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curl-products/cetrimonium-chloride-5-more-surfactants-curly-hair-actually-loves-si
Hi Kiki001, The oversimplified story is that Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate has a negative charge and can interfere with the (temporary) interaction between positively-charged conditioning ingredients and/or styling film-formers (like Polyquaternium-4 or 11), and your hair. It is not a detergent and may not have an effect on removing oils by itself. But in a shampoo formula - the other ingredients do that job. Cetrimonium chloride is less likely to cause a cumulative weighing-down of hair because of the shorter carbon chain and lower "substantivity" ("clinginess") compared to something like Behentrimonium methosulfate. A conditioner using just that ingredient and Cetyl alcohol will usually feel fairly light in the hair. The formula as a whole has a lot to do with whether a product with Cetrimonium chloride, feels like it builds up or not. Something like Unicure conditioner (Cetrimonium bromide-very, very similar) is a good example of a light-feeling product without much build-up. Unless you use way too much.
DeleteI just discovered your fantastic blog, and I wish I'd found it sooner. I have so many questions! On the subject of build up, can you explain why some polyquats are more likely to cause build-up than others? Also, have you ever done a list breaking down which polyquats are most likely, somewhat likely, and less likely to cause buildup? I'd love to have that info when making my product choices.
ReplyDeleteHi Cherie, There are some rules-of-thumb that might help you with the build-up question. But it's not always easy to guess the answer. Polyquaterniums used for styling, especially if the product says "strong hold," are more likely to cause some build-up *if* they are near the beginning of the ingredient list. The rest of the story is related to charge-density of the polymer (Polyquat) and structure, and also related to the electrostatic charge in the product. Those last 2 are things we don't really know about a product. I'm planning a post about that next. It's a really complicated subject that needs a good visual aid. Working on inspiration for that aspect of the post. Such a great question! Stay tuned. Best wishes -W
DeleteHi, I found your blog off reddit. Someone linked it there. I am currently looking for new shampoo and I found this brand. Only issue is, since reading this blog post, it may not work for me.
ReplyDeleteI have low porosity, fine, wavy hair and off and on through the years I've had a issue with buildup. Over time I've realized it may be certain products I used but didn't know what ingredient(s) it could be.
This is the new shampoo brand I'm thinking of purchasing. Do you think it would be a problem for me? Or cause buildup?
https://thegreenjunglebeautyshop.com/products/flora-flora-scalp-soothe-shampoo-bar?variant=40070422593654(Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (derived from coconut), Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate (derived from coconut), Behentrimonium methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aqua (Water), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Glycerin (Vegetable), Fragrance (Natural) Decyl Glucoside, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate, Baphicacanthus Cusia (Nees) Bremek Powder, Citric Acid)
https://thegreenjunglebeautyshop.com/products/flora-flora-curl-protection-shampoo-bar?variant=40070420103286(Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (coconut derived), Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate (coconut derived), Aqua (Water), Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium methosulfate (colza plant derived), Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Glycerin (Vegetable), Fragrance (Natural) Decyl Glucoside, Lactobacillus/Tomato Fruit Ferment Extract & Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract & Keratin Amino Acids & Acyl Coenzyme A Desaturase, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate, Kaolinite, Citric Acid)
https://thegreenjunglebeautyshop.com/products/flora-flora-volumizing-shampoo-bar?variant=40070423707766
(Ingredients: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (coconut derived), Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate (coconut derived), Aqua (Water), Behentrimonium methosulfate (colza plant derived), Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Fragrance (Natural), Decyl Glucoside, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid)
Hi! If we were talking about a liquid shampoo - I'd say that formula is likely to leave a build-up feel from the cocoa or shea butters. If you have hard water, the combination of anionic surfactants such as Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and cationic surfactants like Behentrimonium methosulfate can be a problem as well. But with shampoo bars, there is a expectation that they leave hair feeling different. If you read reviews - people often mention that (and like it) because hair feels almost like a styling product in the hair. *** If the build-up you usually experience is dullness, tangles, or a dry feeling, products with butters, kaolinite (clay) might not be the best choice. If you're really dedicated to the idea of shampoo bars, it may take some experimenting to figure out which one leaves your hair feeling acceptable. Good luck shopping! -W
DeleteThank you for replying to me! Now, I'm thinking of going a different way lol. We do have hard water where I live.
DeleteI'm looking at this product too and it does include a cationic ingredient. But lots of people love it with all kinds of different hair textures.
https://ca.iherb.com/pr/byrd-hairdo-products-purifying-shampoo-all-hair-types-salty-coconut-16-fl-oz-473-ml/110619
(Ingredients: Water, sodium c14-16 olefin sulfonate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, cocamidopropylamine oxide, fragrance, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ppg-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, sodium hydroxide, sea salt (sodium chloride), glycerin, ascophyllum nodosum (kelp) extract, calluna vulgaris (heather) extract, nannochloropsis oculata (algae) extract, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, tetrasodium edta, camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract, algae (seaweed) extract, palmaria palmata (red dulse algae) extract, yellow 5 (ci#19140), methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, blue 1 (ci#42090).)
Do you think this shampoo has a high chance of causing buildup?
Hello, thank you very much for your post. May I ask you what are your thoughts on the bounce curl gentle clarifying shampoo ? Here are the ingredients :
ReplyDeleteWater, **Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, **Decyl Glucoside, **Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, **Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, **Propanediol, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Polyquaternium-10, **Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Biotin, **Vanillin, **Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Protein, *Nigella Sativa (Virgin Black Cumin) Oil, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Lactic Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, **Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, **Boswellia Carterii Oil, **Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, **Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, **Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, **Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, **Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, **Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, **Geranium Maculatum Oil, **Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Seed Oil, **Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, **Pogostemon Cablin Oil, **Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Seed Oil, ** Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Caprylyl Glycol.
We have polyquaternium-10 but 2 cleasing agents first, would they still be efficient against it ? They are not from the list you mention on this article, so I wanted to know what are your thoughts on those cleansing agents and of the overall shampoo for fine, low-normal porosity hair ? Right now I have come clean from kinky curly, but I am quickly overloaded from moisturizing products in general. I also need chelating ingredients, as I live in the desert and we have very very hard water. Anyways, thanks for your amazing work again !
Hello! Polyquaternium-10 will act as a conditioner. It protects hair from dehydration and helps with detangling. The detergents in this product may not remove every trace of the Polyquaternium-10 the next washing. But that may not be a problem unless a person has extremely build-up-inclined hair. ***** You have to take this formula as a whole. ***** But more to the point, you're asking how it compares to Kinky Curly Come Clean, and you're worried about your hair getting weighed down with moisturizing products. If you like Kinky Curly Come Clean, you're probably not going to like Bounce Curl Clarifying Shampoo. At least not specifically as a Clarifying Shampoo. It combines detergents that are considered gentle (Sodium Isethionates, Decyl glucoside, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) and combines them with cationic conditioners (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Polyquaternium-10), proteins, oils and humectants. It's a very moisturizing shampoo. And as a person with hard water, when bubbly detergents are mixed with creamy conditioners like Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine - it sometimes causes more problems than it solves for hair that is easily weighed down.
DeleteIon has a Hard Water shampoo, L'Oreal has a sulfate-free Clarifying shampoo. You might look in those directions. I hope that's helpful! -W