Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Scientifically tested, over-the-counter treatments for thinning hair


Please remember that this information cannot and should not replace the care and advice of a physician. If you experience hair thinning, seek consultation with a medical professional who listens and will physically examine your scalp and assess your overall health. If you take medications on a regular basis, always check for interactions between medications and supplements.


Science-y Hair Blog © 2011 by  Wendy M.S. is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 


Be aware that scalps can be sensitive to any and all treatments and products, including natural ones. Scalps that are losing hair may be especially sensitive, proceed with caution.


This post has lots of links. Where I can link you to a full article, I did. Otherwise, I linked to abstracts, which contain a summary of the study's contents. There are some product links on this page for which I may receive a small commission if clicked, at no cost to you, and none of your personal information is available to me.


Updated: October 2023

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Androgenic alopecia is the clinical term of male and female pattern hair loss. It’s one of those diagnoses of exclusion. If you don’t have telogen effluvium (hair loss following an exposure to an allergen, due to physical or psychological trauma), or alopecia areata (patches of hair loss), traction alopecia due to tension on your scalp, or hair loss due to thyroid disease, scalp disease or polycystic ovarian syndrome - then you likely have androgenic alopecia.©Science-y Hair Blog 2017


If you start to experience hair loss that is more than you are accustomed to, it’s ideal to have a doctor or dermatologist check for other causes of hair loss before concluding you have androgenic alopecia. Hair loss can be a sign that something else is wrong.


Female pattern hair loss and male pattern hair loss take on different patterns, at the temples, at the crown, both, or the entire front (for men).©Science-y Hair Blog 2017


Androgens are hormones which are more abundant in men than women, specifically testosterone. Testosterone circulates in your blood and in the hair follicle, can be transformed into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) by the enzyme alpha-5 reductase in your hair follicles. This is thought to be damaging to hair follicles. The end result is that hair follicles begin to produce narrow, “vellus” hairs. Like the hairs on non-hairy parts of your body, they are very thin, narrow and difficult to see. As these replace normal-width hairs on your head, the appearance of hair density decreases. 


Note that the "DHT-causes-hair-thinning" idea is not unequivocally proven or the sole cause of hair thinning. There are other variables at work on scalps with thinning hair like low-grade inflammation and atopy (allergy to airborne allergens, contact allergens, yeasts in normal scalp flora).©Science-y Hair Blog 2017

There are some proven treatments for Androgenic alopecia which work in a variety of ways. These are ones you can buy over the counter, they don't require a prescription. Some of them you can use together because different treatments address different causes of hair thinning, such as enzymatic pathways or circulation or inflammation. If in doubt, ask a pharmacist, doctor or dermatologist.



1) Minoxidil (topical). For example: Rogaine. Minoxidil is meant to be applied twice daily as indicated on the label for the optimal adherence to protocol. But if you can't keep that up and want to try it, create a schedule you can manage - because it may still be helpful. Once-daily dosing is recommended for women here. Don't let the twice-per-day thing put you off the treatment.  c

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-Strength: Everybody (women and men) can to use the 5% men’s strength to get the best result, assuming you have no other health problems and are not taking other medications regularly (like blood pressure medication). If you take those medications - please check with your doctor first! 

- It is recommended that women use 5% minodixil only once per day to avoid side effects like facial hair growth.


-Effectiveness: Minoxidil is effective in around 50% to 60% of people who use it. 

- Studies vary, hair count may increase 10% and up to 20-30% with a very good result from Minoxidil. For every 100 hairs, 20-30 more could grow in. As with any product, individual results vary.


- Concentration: Depending on the study, 2% versus 5%: With 5% Minoxidil, results appear more quickly than with 2%. Also, 5% Minoxidil may result in higher hair-counts than 2%, perhaps 5% more (that's 5 hairs per 100). Two percent (2%) Minoxidil can work, and for people who prefer the side effect profile of the lower dose, it's an option.

- How does it work: Minoxidil is a vasodilator, it may encourage growth factors in hair follicles, encouraging cell proliferation, and may inhibit the action of androgens on hair follicles - most of these studies were not done in humans, but in mice, or in extracted cells from human prostate tissue. Do we know exactly how it works? No, but we do know that it does work quite often! 


- Itchy side effects: If you find minoxidil itchy, seek out a propylene-glycol-free formula, or try applying it with a fine-mist spray bottle, or even a cotton swab.


 - Thrifty/drip-free tip: Use a fine-mist spray bottle (like the little ones sold in travel kits) or apply the product with a cotton swab (drop the product into a little spoon, a plastic cap - don't dip a used swab back in the bottle). That is less likely to leave hair feeling yucky, less likely to drip, and you'll use less product! Make sure you apply enough with a cotton swab that you have a thin coating.


2) Topical caffeine.  It has to go on your scalp, drinking caffeinated beverages doesn’t count. Bummer. 


Caffeine is a quickly-absorbed vasodilator to increase blood flow in the scalp. Caffeine does not need to stay on the scalp until the next washing (that's why shampoos work), but it does need about 2 minutes to absorb into your skin before rinsing 

Topical caffeine may also decrease trans-epidermal water loss, which means skin stays hydrated

  • The concentration used in the one of studies linked here, done in the lab (not on people, just their hair follicles/skin in the lab) is 0.001% to 0.005% - very low for an active ingredient, but enough to be effective. This test was done with skin culture and higher doses failed to produce results. But I think we need to remember that call culture is not living skin and cannot respond in the same way.
  • In a 2018 study done on men with androgenetic alopecia (in vivo), a 0.2% caffeine solution was used twice per day, increasing the number of hairs in the growing phase (anagen) by almost 11% - similar to the results from 5% Minoxidil used in the same study (yep, that's less than the Minoxidil results above - individual results may vary, the testers were instructed how to use both products). This is equivalent to adding 11 new hairs per 100 hairs already growing on your scalp.
  • Topical caffeine affects the whole body and too much on your skin is the same as too much when ingested. If you cannot drink caffeinated beverages - proceed with caution (and/or check with a doctor). Larger concentrations can be dangerous. If you're caffeine-sensitive, topical caffeine might keep you awake if you use caffeine in products at night, or give you a "caffeine buzz" during the day. 
  • In lab tests on skin in culture which was treated with testosterone, hair growth was suppressed. When topical caffeine was added, it stimulated hair growth back to normal, so caffeine may counter hair-thinning effects of testosterone in hair follicles.

- The takeaway message is: Caffeine stimulates hair growth and helps hair stay in anagen phase longer - the growing phase - than it otherwise might in people with androgenic alopecia. Caffeine may slow down excessive shedding and stimulate hair growth. Topical caffeine has been measured to stay active in hair follicles for up to 48 hours, so it needs to be used every 1-2 days to be most effective. Leave-on products and shampoos can both work because caffeine is absorbed into the skin - shampoos need to stay on for 2 minutes.©Science-y Hair Blog 2017


There are a number of products - shampoos, sprays, serums you can purchase which already contain caffeine. Some contain additional ingredients which may be beneficial. There is a do-it-yourself recipe following this list.


Caffeine-Containing Hair Products 

Alpecin C1Caffeine shampoo

Alpecin After Shampoo Liquid 

Amplixin Intensive Hair Growth Serum 

Better Not Younger Fortifying Scalp Serum

Broo Thickening Shampoo

ConditionMe Hair Growth Conditioner - Watermans UK brand 

Dove Men + Care Fortifying 2 In 1 Shampoo, Complete 2-in-1 shampoo 

GrowMe Shampoo, Sulfate Free - Watermans UK brand

Man Cave Caffeine Shampoo 

Revita Hair Stimulating Shampoo (with ketoconazole) (Sulfate free) (Not suitable for vegetarians) 

SebaMed Scalp Activating Shampoo for Thinning Hair 

The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density

Thicker Fuller Hair Shampoo 

Ultrax Hair Surge Caffeine Hair Growth Stimulating Shampoo 

Ultrax Hair Solaye Conditioner 

Ultrax Labs Hair Plush Thickening treatment serum 

Vegamour GRO Hair Serum


DIY caffeine recipe: 

0.2%, the same as in the study linked above.

Mix the contents of a 200 mg capsule of caffeine powder (such as this one with no fillers or additives) with 100 ml of distilled water (3.3 oz, or just under 1/2 cup)  Using too much topical caffeine can cause the same side effects as ingesting too much caffeine, or can cause scalp irritation.  Overdosing on caffeine can be very dangerous for people of any age!©Science-y Hair Blog 2017 


I encourage you to consider diluting this to test whether your skin and body tolerates it. If you're not sure this is safe for you, check with a doctor!

The caffeine-water could be mixed with a shampoo (when using, don't dilute a product in its bottle), or made into a spray or put in or in a applicator-tip-bottle to apply to the scalp.


Can brewed tea or coffee be used? Yes. But not decaffeinated tea or coffee. Tea and coffee can create or enhance "cool" or ashy tones in hair. The tea or coffee needs to contact your scalp and be left on for at least 2 minutes. Tea and coffee are complex chemical substances, if you have a very sensitive scalp, it may find these beverages irritating. 

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3) Anti-Dandruff Shampoos

A human trial of 3 anti-dandruff shampoos published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2002 found the following results (chart below) in 150 men (age 18-65) with mild to moderate hair loss related to androgenetic alopecia, using anti-dandruff shampoos 2-3 times per week after 6 months. The up-arrow means increase, the down-arrow means decrease.




Click to enlarge and make the chart less blurry.


Having 5-8% more hairs in growth phase is good, that means more (normal-sized) hairs are growing. Having reduced shedding is great, it may mean more hairs are staying in anagen (growth) phase. A 10-17% reduction in shedding should be noticeable in the shower or when detangling. Anagen or growth phase can last for several years unless it's shortened by androgenetic alopecia. 


Anti-dandruff shampoos can also decrease oxidative stress and inflammation of the scalp, which is also a component of pattern hair loss.


The general trends are the important takeaway message. All three ingredients reduced shedding and increased hairs in the growth phase - that means more hairs on the scalp. Ketoconazole and Piroctone olamine may have helped return more vellus hairs to their normal width than Zinc pyrithione. But Zinc pyrithione is a great choice for an effective anti-dandruff and skin-soothing product. Your choice depends on your needs and what works for you.


Anti-dandruff shampoos may not be a "One and Done" treatment for hair loss, but they're potentially supportive of hair density. They may address the inflammatory aspect of androgenic alopecia.


Products containing these active ingredients can be found on this page, sorted by active ingredient.


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4) Protective foods and nutrients: 

  • Higher vanadium intake. Having an adequate intake of vanadium, which is especially high in shellfish, mushrooms, parsley and dill, is correlated with a lower likelihood of having moderate to severe androgenic alopecia, mild androgenic alopecia is still possible. (Abstract link)
  • For men - higher soy beverage intake correlated with more severe androgenic alopecia (same reference as above).
  • Iron and Vitamin D - you need adequate stores of these. It's best not to supplement without first having a blood test as these very-important nutrients can also cause serious problems if taken when you don't need them. Here is a link to a post with more about these 2 nutrients.

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5) Protective behaviors: Sleep

Sleeping for fewer than 6 hours each night is correlated with more widespread hair thinning in men with androgenic alopecia (in the reference linked in #4). I know, you don’t need to hear that, busy people and night owls. Basic self-maintenance is boring, but it's so important.  Get 6 to 8 hours of sleep every night!

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6) LED and Low-Level Laser therapy

Look for FDA-cleared devices. That clearance does not guarantee they work, but it does mean they've been subject to regulatory processes: Meaning they're supposed to deliver what they say they do. One benefit to these products is - no residue, less potential for contact dermatitis or systemic side-effects. These are not cheap. Assuming they last many years, they can be competitive (price-wise) with some topical products over the same number of years. Light therapy can be easily combined with other sorts of treatments (shampoos, topical treatments). The downside is that you have to commit to using it and be consistent. 


Skin responds to different wavelengths of light. You know that - it's why you wear sunscreen - right?  Some wavelengths promote healing and reduce inflammation. "Healing" is a complicated process, it involves both inflammatory and anti-inflammatory sequences, increased blood supply, and proliferation of growth hormones - among other things. Do you know anybody (men in particular) who had knee-replacement surgery? Ask them if it made their leg a lot hairier! And then stop them before they tell you too much...


Active wavelengths appear to be right around 650-655 nm (can include 630 and 660). A 2021 study indicates that laser therapy at 830 nm (and 785) stimulated hair growth best (though it is an animal study). Stay tuned.


Results vary with the product and study

  • Combining lasers and LED at 655 nm wavelength, One study tallied an up to 35% increase in hair density. It appears that this substantial benefit may have been at the edge of very low-density hair, where the exposure to light is greater. The "best case scenario" may be for the most aggressively thinning areas.
  • A product using wavelengths of 630, 650 and 660 had a modest, but significant increase in hair diameter which is meaningful because part of the process of androgenic alopecia is that normal-diameter hairs become "miniaturized" and very narrow.
  • Mostly every-other day treatment is recorded. That makes sense - there is a mild inflammatory process that will stimulate a healing and proliferative response. You don't want to do that every day. 
  • Lasers or LEDs?  Lasers are used in the studies I've seen a brand-name attached to (except for one). Lasers or a combination of lasers and LEDs might be a better investment than a product that uses only LEDs.
  • Response rate?  Most studies have been small, few have more than 100 participants. In those larger studies, 80% or greater of participants had some improvement in hair density. That number was closer to 90% when participants use combination therapy (using either Minoxidil or Finasteride in addition to the light therapy).

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7) Red Clover extract with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 (topical)

This ingredient has been shown to inhibit the alpha-5-reductase enzyme, encourage collagen production in the hair follicle (which may stimulate hair growth - this is not entirely clear), and inhibit some pro-inflammatory compounds in the skin. After 4 months of treatment, in a small (14-person treated, 15 placebo) study, the treated group had significantly (statistically significant = unlikely to be due to chance) more hairs in anagen phase - new hair growth - than the untreated group. 15% more hairs in anagen phase than the untreated group. There was also a reduction in hairs in telogen -getting ready to fall out- phase - was about 30% fewer than the untreated group. That means a net gain in hairs both growing in new, and staying on the scalp longer before falling out. This study was published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (pdf link). For people with male/female pattern hair loss, that means hairs stay growing for a "normal" life span rather than a shortened life span typical of pattern hair loss. Bear in mind - this is a very small test group!


The treatment was left on, and based on the molecular weights of the active ingredients, a leave-on treatment may be more effective than a shampoo.


You can find these ingredients in:


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8) Melatonin (topical)


One study of topical melatonin in androgenic alopecia found that both men and women, treated with a 0.0033% melatonin solution (with other ingredients) experiences a reduction in hair loss of up to 60%. Seborrheic dermatitis was also improved, when it was present. Melatonin may work through an anti-oxidant effect on a scalp experiencing oxidative stress. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2017 


Any formulation containing melatonin may or may not work - most formulas contain multiple ingredients (like biotin or menthol) which have their own functions, confounding the result. The molecular weight of melatonin is small enough to penetrate skin, which is promising. It's also lipophilic, which might give it an affinity for oils on your scalp, or else make it better delivered in a product with an oil (or oil-like) component.


Products for the scalp containing melatonin include NutraM. (Click here for Amazon), "nFuse Night Cap" is another option, as is Zero Mino (with multiple active ingredients).


Melatonin products are applied to the scalp daily, or taking 1 or 2 days off per week. 

Because we have melatonin receptors in our skin, you may experience some sensations of sleepiness or dizziness after applying such a product, just like melatonin supplements. People who have asthma are cautioned to avoid melatonin, and probably need to avoid topical melatonin too. Use with caution! 

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9) Pumpkin-seed containing dietary supplement (with other active ingredients) 


A pumpkin seed-containing supplement in one, 6-month study which was double-blinded and placebo-controlled (the gold standard for studies such as this) had a positive effect on hair re-growth in men with mild to moderate androgenic alopecia. That translates into 40% increases in hair counts in men treated with this supplement after 24 weeks versus only 10% increases in hair counts for men in the placebo group. [Let's say the net effect was a 30% increase in hair, meaning for every 100 hairs, there were 30 more following treatment.]


The specific supplement used in this study was Octo-Sabal Plus” which is not available in the U.S., containing : Octacosanol, Pumpkin seed powder, Mixed vegetable powder, Evening primrose powder, Corn silk extracted powder, Red clover powder, Tomato powder. These are not inactive ingredients, they have systemic actions - and they are probably synergistic, working together to have the end effect.

  • Red clover extract is a phytoestrogen (plant estrogen), corn silk extract contains plant sterols which may help with glucose metabolism. Phytoestrogens from plants may modify the onset of androgenic alopecia by reducing inflammation around hair follicles.
  • Octocosanol may have mild anti-inflammatory effects and/or improve lipid metabolism (cholesterol, for example). 
  • Tomato powder may reduce inflammation and improve lipid metabolism.
  • Pumpkin seed extract may interact with alpha 5 reductase and aromatase, which may have an impact in how alpha 5 reductase affects hair follicles.


Pumpkin seed oil may also support nitric oxide formation, an effect which may be supportive of healthy skin barrier function


This is a very interesting result, but it's difficult to point to one particular ingredient as the "active ingredient." It's probably more appropriate to say supplement addressed a variety of health conditions that may have working together in these men to contribute to hair loss. 4 capsules were taken each day - which is a lot of supplement.

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10) Various Essential oils 

10 a) In one study, 44% of participants treated with a blend of essential oils (thyme, lavender, rosemary, cedar) in a carrier oil blend -compared to only 6% of the group who used the carrier oils without the essential oils - experienced improvement in return of hair with this particular form of hair loss. The study is linked here and they provide their formula (Scroll down to "Materials and Methods). This was alopecia areata, which is different from male/female pattern hair loss, it is an inflammatory condition.


These essential oils have anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial effects and can promote healing in skin. The oil was applied to the scalp at night (every night), massaged for 2 minutes, then wrapped with a warm towel. No mention is made of whether the scalp/hair was washed in the morning.

This was done nightly for 3-7 months.


This formula is not without risks. Essential oils, even diluted, can cause scalp irritation (which can provoke hair loss - ironically). People with seborrheic dermatitis or very sensitive skin may react badly to the application of oils to the scalp, or may be sensitive to the essential oils. The fragrance of this blend is very strong!


10 b) 3% Peppermint oil alone produced (in mice) a better result in a leave-on solution than 3% Minoxidil (which is not full-strength) for inducing hairs in the growth (anagen) phase and increasing follicle number. Results were visible at 4 weeks in shaved mice. This is not an in-human study, mouse-results may not be the same as human results.


10 c) Rosemary oil proved to be as effective as 2% Minoxidil (pdf link) (which is not full-strength Minoxidil) at increasing hair count by 6 months in human males. The rosemary oil was part of a scalp lotion at 0.37% concentration. The result was tipped more in favor of a decrease in hair loss, which was mild-to moderate for approximately 90% of participants by 6 months. Increase in hair count was mild in 38% of participants.

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How to choose a product?

  • Consult with your doctor or dermatologist about what kind of hair loss you have. Don't waste time and money treating the wrong problem.
  • Are you taking blood pressure medication, or have a heart or vascular condition? Unless your doctor says it's okay - no Minoxidil for you. But consider topical caffeine products if you can safely consume caffeine, at-home LED/laser therapy, Zinc pyrithione, Piroctone olamine or Ketoconazole shampoo, or enjoy shampoos with essential oils (if they don't irritate your skin). 
  • Pregnant? Ask your doctor! 
  • Easily irritated scalp or seborrheic or atopic dermatitis (eczema)? Is your skin irritable as a rule? Consider a Zinc pyrithione, Piroctone olamine or Ketoconazole shampoo, in addition to anything else you choose. LED/laser therapy may be a good option as well.
  • Need the best-researched return on investment? Minoxidil.


34 comments:

  1. Brilliant! I love your blog I learn a lot with your posts since my hair is not my best asset... haha
    Please, don't stop posting! <3 :D lots of love!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for doing the research to find these treatments! In #8 using the black cumin oil, is it an essential oil? Is the lavender also an essential oil? I'd like to give this a try. What kind of ethanol can be used in this?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Lily,
      The black cumin seed is an essential oil, but it also is used as a supplement, so it comes in larger bottles. The lavender is an essential oil too, but it was used in the placebo and did not have an effect in hair growth. It probably improves the scent, but 0.5% black cumin seed oil doesn't smell very cumin-y for too long.
      There are shampoos which contain black cumin seed oil which might be easier.
      The ethanol is probably 200 proof, or that would be my guess, things found in labs. For home-creation, I would use the highest proof ethanol you can get. Vodka comes to mind.

      Delete
    2. Thank you!! Which of these might be the most helpful for hair loss associated with a lupus flare? I currently follow the curly girl method...cowashing and using products without sulfate or silicones.

      Delete
    3. Hello Kimberly,
      Discuss any of this with a doctor or pharmacist first! You don't want to have an interaction with any medication you are taking. All of these treatments have potentially systemic effects. I think you might lean towards the anti-inflammatory like blackseed oil, which was helpful in telogen effluvium. There are some blackseed oil shampoos available - the total amount of the oil is low, so it will be listed near the end of the ingredient list. If you click the pdf link, there are photos showing the scalps of some participants before and after - and that "redness under the skin" of inflammation is gone.
      Of course, getting enough sleep is ideal and making sure your Vitamin D and ferritin levels are in good shape is helpful. If blackseed oil didn't irritate your skin - you could add it to a co-wash. It might smell - odd.
      Best wishes! W

      Delete
  3. Thanks, Wendy! I was thinking Vodka, too, as an easily obtainable source. I'll let you know if I start this and my results. My biggest issue is not wanting to wash my hair every day or even every other day, as most treatments require a certain frequency for results - thus my preference for oral supplements, but this seem worth a try.


    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you so much for this. Keep up the good work! :)

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hello :),

    Thank you so much for all this amazing content. I will try your caffeine diy spray. I was wondering how long it should stay on the hair? Also 2 min like you described in the shampoo section?
    Thank you so much!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Dammie,
      2 minutes on the scalp is enough time for the caffeine to be absorbed. With the spray - you can just leave it on your scalp. If you're worried about scalp irritation - you can cut the amount of caffeine in the recipe in half and you will still have enough active ingredient. Good luck! W

      Delete
  6. Hey again. Awesome post. This is conoletely off topic but can you please do a post on the importance of pH level of haircare products. I've been trying to use more natural, (mostly fragrance free, fewet essential oils too) brands since my scalp gree sensitive anr my eyes and facial dkin are veryy sensitive to glycols and frangrances.
    But I've read that most natural brands and small business brands do not stay within a healthy pH range.
    NaturalhavenBloom did a pH test list for some popular salon, drugstore and 'organic' brands,but it was mostly incomplete. Could you possibly test some products yourself. I dont have access to pH strips here.
    I'd also love to know your take on this pH thing. I do know for example that using the wrong amounts of anything too basic or acid can ruin thr hair long term and break the hydrogen bonds(similar to chemical porcessing) but I'd like more info on that though.
    Link to the article mentioned:
    http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2012/02/ph-of-shampoo-ultimate-list.html?m=1

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hey again. Awesome post. This is conoletely off topic but can you please do a post on the importance of pH level of haircare products. I've been trying to use more natural, (mostly fragrance free, fewet essential oils too) brands since my scalp gree sensitive anr my eyes and facial dkin are veryy sensitive to glycols and frangrances.
    But I've read that most natural brands and small business brands do not stay within a healthy pH range.
    NaturalhavenBloom did a pH test list for some popular salon, drugstore and 'organic' brands,but it was mostly incomplete. Could you possibly test some products yourself. I dont have access to pH strips here.
    I'd also love to know your take on this pH thing. I do know for example that using the wrong amounts of anything too basic or acid can ruin thr hair long term and break the hydrogen bonds(similar to chemical porcessing) but I'd like more info on that though.
    Link to the article mentioned:
    http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2012/02/ph-of-shampoo-ultimate-list.html?m=1

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Mamli,

      I am familiar with The Natural Haven Blog and that particular post. I don't own very many products and I can't use most products due to sensitive skin, so I would have to buy a bunch of products I cannot use. That presents a logistic problem.

      The range of pH at which hair is is most resilient (least likely to swell up or be weakened) is between 4.5 and 6. But many people's hair tolerates pH outside that ranges for short exposures. If one uses a product with a pH of 8 or 9, like baking soda solutions or real soap - hair may swell and that is stressful and dehydrating. The same applies to low pH, some people's hair swells in low pH solutions like acidic rinses.

      Most hair products are in the "safe" pH range because that is where preservatives are also most effective.

      The products that would always be high pH are soaps, natural soap whether bar soap or liquid soap. But also shampoos containing soap, which may be listed as Sodium Cocoate and Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Olivate and Potassium Olivate, Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, "Saponified oils of _____."

      I'll give some thought to how I might find the pH of products I don't own.
      I do have a post with pH of common homemade rinses here: http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/ph-of-common-homemade-rinses.html

      Delete

  8. Hello! First, I love your blog! I follow everything you write and I admire your work very much.
    I would like to know about storage of the caffeine spray. I live in Brazil, Rio de Janeiro and here we face high humidity and I'am worried if I can do this amount and use until the end (expiring date), and how i can stock (fridge or closet).
    Sorry about my English =/


    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Thais,
      It might be best to store your caffeine spray in the refrigerator in a hot, humid climate. Good question! Also, the caffeine that you buy to use to make the spray needs to be kept in a cool, dry, dark place.
      If you start out with distilled water or boil some water and let it cool before making the caffeine water, it should be free of bacteria and molds, but bottles and surfaces can contaminate your product. So it is better to be safe and keep it refrigerated. I hope the caffeine spray works well for you! -W

      Delete
  9. Hi. Great article. What about many of the herbs used as part of ayurvedic hair practices? Bhringraj is supposed to perform as well as minoxidil? I would love to hear your thoughts/assessment about it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, MzTeaze! I will look into it and add it to the post. It looks like the studies have only been done on mice and rats so far. Looks promising. -W

      Delete
  10. Can I use caffeine powder instead? It's cosmetic grade. Can I add it to FSG?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello mparmpadeli,

      Yes you can use a powder. But you need a very sensitive scale so that you can weigh out 0.005%. Which is 0.005 grams per 100 grams. If you were making a liter or a gallon, multiply that amount by the volume of water you're using.
      Using too much caffeine could be dangerous. Even doubling the amount can cause a caffeine "buzz" - for people with heart problems, kidney or breathing or anxiety problems, excess caffeine could be a health hazard.

      You could add it to flaxseed gel, but it would be better for measuring and mixing's sake to make the caffeine-water first, then prepare the flaxseed gel with the caffeine-water. Heating to boiling will not change the effects of the caffeine - the boiling point of caffeine is higher than that or water.

      I'm not sure what good it would do the scalp, though. Unless you apply flaxseed gel evenly to the scalp, coverage will be very spotty

      Delete
  11. Hello and thank you for such great information.Would infusing oil with green tea leaves be effective? Can you tell me what the ratio would be for green tea leaves to oil to get the affective amount of caffeine? Thank you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't think infusing oil with green tea leaves would work for caffeine. Caffeine is water-soluble and might not end up in the oil.

      Delete
  12. Terrific article. Could Rogaine be used along with Alterna Caviar Clinical Root & Scalp Stimulator (Red clover extract)

    ReplyDelete
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    1. They might be used at the same time, at least based on how they work. Rogaine has different "targets" than the red clover and acetyl tetrapeptide-3
      But using 2 topicals always creates the potential for reactions between products (and your skin) so it would be best to test both out on a small patch of skin and watch how it responds for about 3 days before trying it all over your scalp. If you were to experience a sensitivity reaction (which can cause hair loss!) or if the 2 products were to not mix well and create an unpleasant residue, you'd want to know that before committing all your scalp to the treatment. Good luck - W

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  13. How do you calculate the percentage of caffeine in your diy solution? I am calculating it as 200mg/4000 ml, and coming up with 5%, rather than .005 per cent. I have read that solutions greater than 2% can cause hair loss - obviously not the goal! I am no scientist or mathematician, so am I calculating this incorrectly?

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    1. Hello Linda, You're right, I neglected the last step of the percentage calculation. I have corrected the "recipe" above. It still errs on the more-concentrated side. I like to mix the caffeine water with shampoo for ease of use, thus diluting it further.

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    2. Thanks! I am definitely planning to use the water in my refresh solution, so fingers crossed!

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    3. hi,thank you for your answer and thank you to linda for the data.i have a question,im really bad at maths so here goes.instant coffee has 0,007 gr caffeine per teaspoon.which is the proportion i need? i mean per cup-liter or whatever.sorry for my english.

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  14. the nigella sativa oil study said they only used 2 ml per day to treat the scalp. i feel like that's not enough solution at all, even if you are treating a few problem area vs. the entire scalp. do you have any insight on this? Thank you so much

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    1. I think the oil mixture was left on, if I recall correctly. If one applied 2 ml of oil to the scalp with a dropper or pipet, it could be spread around to cover the scalp unless hair is extremely dense - which we're assuming was not the case. I read studies like this and think, "yeah, right" as I try to imagine fussing around putting dots of cumin-scented oil mixture on my scalp daily for any length of time. It would almost have to be applied in either strips or dots all over the scalp and then rubbed in.

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  15. Herbal Essence has a volume shampoo and conditioner that has coffee fruit in it do you think that this might work? Thanks for your help.

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    1. Hello Janet - I think I would want to see "Caffeine" on the ingredient list to be sure that was what I was getting in the product.

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  16. Excellent article, thank you! I am interested in the DIY leave-on melatonin: how much glycerin should I use for this mixture?

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    1. Hello Linda, Apologies for the delayed response. If I were mixing up 100 g (about 100 ml), to dissolve 0.3g melatonin, I would start with about 2 ml glycerin (about half a teaspoon), mix well to see if it dissolves. You may want to let it sit before deciding to add more. If that is not enough, add about half that much again (another quarter teaspoon) and repeat the process. My preference is for the less glycerin - so the product doesn't feel sticky or make roots look wet or greasy. *And* if you do like this product and don't mind mixing it - an application tip to avoid side effects and over-application is to use a Q-tip to apply in parted sections. Soak the Q-tip in the solution and do 3-4 strokes in each parting. Be sure to refrigerate the mixture to keep it safe to use! Good luck. WS

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  17. Thank you.
    What do you think about arguments that caffeine don't work for hair grow in this article menscript.com/uk/articles/caffeine-shampoo-for-hair-loss-a-waste-of-time-and-money ?

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    1. Hello again Oleg, That is a splashy, click-attracting title for an article, but it indicates more bias than I like to see when I'm doing research. The most-researched treatment for androgenetic alopecia is Minoxidil. Topical caffeine has been the subject of less research, so at the moment, it's a treatment that looks promising, especially considering that the idea of a hair-loss treatment that is as simple as using shampoo is very appealing. We could use more clarity about when and for whom it works best. The two treatments work differently, and they may work better for some people, than others. Best wishes -W

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