The 2 previous posts were about the first bond-building product on the scene - Olaplex and its active ingredient.
This post contains affiliate links for which I may receive a small commission if clicked, at no cost to you and revealing none of your personal information to me.
This post is about the proliferation of bond-building products. While this is a marketing strategy, many of the products have incorporated different strategies using truly active ingredients to improve hair-health and product performance. This is a win. There are products at all price-points, and I'm highlighting some of the stand-out ingredients you might find in these products that actually benefit hair hydration, strength and elasticity.
Actual bond-re-building may be elusive - and that may not matter. Some ingredients can support the protein-structure of hair while they hydrate from within. Or surround the hair with softening films (that you can’t see).
There will be a list coming up soon with more products (if you read this blog, you know I'm into making lists), these are a sample.
There are a few different variations on these themes, working on the inside AND the outside of hair.
- Hair-penetrating humectants (moisturizers). These add flexibility, hydration, and some of these ingredients interact with hair proteins (in different ways) to temporarily strengthen the hair and may stabilize the protein structure. This isn’t exactly new, but we’re thinking about it differently.
- Chelating ingredients - to prevent minerals in water from interfering with the end result. Softer hair, more shine - if you have hard water.
- Surface-active emollients, proteins, or film-formers that make hair feel more slippery, less tangly, plush-soft or smooth. They also can protect during heat-styling.
Note: All these products have a conditioner base, I didn’t highlight that. Conditioners deposit on hair, more so in damaged areas. They usually act on the outer layers of hair and can do great things for slip and smoothness. If there is a conditioner or oil that can penetrate into the cortex, it’s indicated.
I have a 2-minute YouTube video with a little visual aid/analogy to help make sense of the "stabilizing protein structure" idea. Click the link above to go there.
Science-y Hair Blog © 2011 by Wendy M.S. is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 
Newbie ingredients I’m enthusiastic about:
- Hydroxypropylglucoamide, Hydroxypropylammoniumgluconate, aka “ FiberhanceTM” which penetrates into the hair cortex where it interacts with keratin (temporarily) for hydration, elasticity and strength. Sugars (this product is sugar-based) can stabilize protein structure in damaged hair. Market research found this ingredient to be beneficial for a wide range of hair types in people of European, African-American and Asian descent.
- Isopentyldiol: A hair-penetrating humectant that increases strength in dyed or highlighted hair, reduces frizz, smoothes hair and may help preserve color.
Some Product Examples:
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Water (Aqua) (Eau), Alcohol Denat., Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Cetyl Esters, Behentrimonium Chloride, Polysorbate 20,sh-Oligopeptide-78 (K18PEPTIDE™), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Isopropyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Geraniol, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol.
In this product, the Denatured alcohol swells the hair gently to improve the uptake of the product.
- 2 hydrating ingredients small enough to penetrate into hair cortex
- Propylene glycol
- Hydrolyzed wheat starch
- Hydrolyzed wheat protein: A film-forming humectant/moisturizer. Molecular weight is too high to penetrate cortex easily, but will condition and hydrate superficially on the outside of hair.
- sh-Oligopeptide-78: has shown an ability to bond to keratin in hair, but its molecular weight it too large to penetrate into the cortex. Perhaps it is more active at the surface as a peptide-based conditioning agent. Hydrolyzed Wheat protein and starch are active ingredients.
This approach of inducing hair swelling to increase product uptake is different. The inclusion of this particular peptide may be helpful, as it contains amino acids that can improve hair-strength.
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The next product is doing a little crafty marketing. They call the product “acidic bonding.” It’s true that solutions containing glycolic acid have some ability to improve hair flexibility, slip and strength (temporarily), and it does that from inside the hair cortex. Citric acid does not perform as well. What citric acid can do is prevent hard water from messing with how your conditioner works. And that’s a big deal, because if the product can prevent minerals from interacting with it, your end-result will be softer and more flexible hair. The product-webpage hints at this benefit.
Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Intensive Treatment “Citric acid + 14% Bonding Care Complex.” What does that even mean? It has some citric acid. And 14% of other stuff! They make Bonding shampoo and conditioner, don't worry about the percent in there. The pH of this product on the Safety Data Sheet is listed at 3.5 - 4.5.
Aqua / water, Cetearyl alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium chloride, Stearyl alcohol, Citric acid, Cetyl esters, Sodium citrate, Isopropyl alcohol, Parfum / fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Polyquaternium-10, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxypropyl guar, Limonene, Linalool
- 1 Hair-penetrating moisturizer (Glycerin)
- Citric acid: “Defends” against hard-water-interference
- Cetyl esters - may be hair-penetrating. A softening and smoothing emollient that is similar to the wax-like component of sebum - it detangles well
- 2 extra conditioners/detanglers: Polyquaternium-10, Hydroxypropyl guar.
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*This appears to be virtually the same product as Redken (above) - but it costs half as much.
Aqua / Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Stearyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Cetyl Esters, Sodium Citrate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Parfum / Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Polyquaternium-10, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene
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Living Proof promises to repair all 3 bonds in hair (Hydrogen bonds re-form when your hair dries, that’s a “gimme”). It uses novel ingredients that mimic “greasier” ingredients’ effects for a smooth, conditioned feel without a heavy, greasy result.
Living Proof Triple Bond Complex Leave-in Treatment
Water/Eau/Aqua, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Isodecyl Oleate, Isopentyldiol, Dioctyldodecyl Dodecanedioate, Sodium Phytate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Jojoba Esters, Linoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimer Dilinoleate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Cyclodextrin, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, PEG-75 Stearate, Polyglycerin-3, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Fragrance/Parfum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Gluconic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Citral, Limonene
- 4 Hair-penetrating humectants/moisturizers:
- Isopentyldiol
- Glycerin
- Propanediol, Pentylene glycol
- Sodium phytate - to “defend” against hard water interference
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Bumble and bumble Bond-Building Repair Treatment
Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropylgluconamide, Hydroxypropylammonium Gluconate, Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer, Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Honey/Mel/Miel, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Tocopherol, Yeast Extract/Faex/Extrait De Levure, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Heptyl Undecylenate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Lactic Acid, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/ Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Squalane, Bis-Ethyl(Isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Silica, Malt Extract, Simethicone, Tartaric Acid, Butylene Glycol, BHT, Fragrance (Parfum), Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, Caramel, Yellow 5 (CI 19140), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).
- 4 Hair Penetrating humectants/moisturizers:
- Hydroxypropylgluconamide, Hydroxypropylammonium Gluconate
- Glycerin
- Honey
- Lactic acid
- Sunflower oil, avocado oil may penetrate into the cortex - this is a rinse-off conditioner, do they have time to do that? Hmm.
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Here’s a budget-friendly product loaded with active ingredients from many of the previous products.
Soapbox Let’s Bond Strengthening Treatment
Water (aqua), Behentrimonium chloride, Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leafjuice, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Hydrolyzed wheat starch, Ascorbic acid (vitamin c), Biotin (vitamin b7), Sclerocarya birrea (marula) seed oil, Pantothenic acid (vitamin b5), Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin e), Retinyl palmitate (vitamin a), Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seedoil, Hydrolyzed soy protein*, Hydrolyzed corn protein, Rice amino acids*, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed adansoniadigitata seed extract*, Proline*, Benzyl alcohol, Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium, chloride, Hydroxypropylglucoamide, Hydroxypropylammoniumgluconate, Dehydroacetic acid, Polyquaternium-39, Citric acid, fragrance (parfum)
- 5 Hair-penetrating humectants/moisturizers:
- Glycerin
- Hydrolyzed wheat starch
- Proline
- Hydroxypropylglucoamide, Hydroxypropylammoniumgluconate
- Rice amino acids
- Proteins for strength, hydration
- Soy, Corn - Will act as hydrating conditioners.
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OGX Restoring + Bonding Plex Conditioner
Water (Aqua), Cetyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, PPG 3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Steareth 20, Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-37, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Polyquaternium-47, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, PPG1 Trideceth-6, Isopropyl Alcohol, Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Fragrance (Parfum).
- 1 Hair-penetrating humectant/moisturizer (Glycerin)
- 2 Film-forming Protein-silicone conditioners that cross-link between damaged areas on the cuticle and the active ingredient to form a protective, hydrating and smooth barrier over hair:
- Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol
- Amodimethicone
- Hydrating, heat-protecting protein-silicone conditioner for flexibility and lubrication
- Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol
Cosmetics & Toiletries Science Applied
Glycolic Acid No Longer Just For Skin – Changing the Internal Properties of Hair.
Olechowski F, Zhong S,“Glycolic Acid and its beneficial effects on hair: Claim Substantiation. In-House Testing, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG.
Nuno G. Azoia, Margarida M. Fernandes, Nuno M. Micaêlo, Cláudio M. Soares, Artur Cavaco-Paulo 2012
Molecular modeling of hair keratin/peptide complex: Using MM-PBSA calculations to describe experimental binding results. Proteins: Structure, Function, and Bioinformatics https://doi.org/10.1002/prot.24037
Célia F. Cruz, Nuno G. Azoia, Teresa Matamá, Artur Cavaco-Paulo. 2017
Peptide—protein interactions within human hair keratins. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules 101 805–814
Strengthening the Hair Fiber from Within: Repairing the Cortex of Damaged Hair
Emmanuel PJM Everaert, Sheldon Zhang, Diem Tran, Bert Kroon, Guojin Zhang, Bill Thompson and Roger L. McMullen. 2015 Paper Presented at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists.
Chambers LI, Yufit DS, Musa OM, Steed JW. Understanding the Interaction of Gluconamides and Gluconates with Amino Acids in Hair Care. Cryst Growth Des. 2022 Oct 5;22(10):6190-6200. doi: 10.1021/acs.cgd.2c00753. Epub 2022 Sep 20. PMID: 36217417; PMCID: PMC9542698.
Thank you so much for this. I had my eye on the L'Oréal bond repair for when I run out of my Olaplex 3, but now I think I will try the Soapbox bond strengthening instead. The ingredients look intriguing.
ReplyDeleteI have tried to read the articles you site for your research but I am no scientist! I will continue to depend on you to interpret their findings into a language I can understand.
I didn't realize you had other posts about bond builders! Do you know anything else about k18 that would noteworthy? I'm a little shocked that sh-Oligopeptide-78 is a little too large to penetrate the cortex, that sounds the opposite of what K18 claims. and now i'm curious what else the science may say about how the ingredients of k18 works compared to what the brand says
ReplyDeleteK18's use of alcohol to induce mild swelling (as per their description) is noteworthy, as that lets more ingredients have access to deeper layers of hair. A high content of Propylene glycol is noteworthy, it can be very softening. The only other product I know of with that much is GVP Conditioning Balm (from Sally's Beauty Supply) which is a generic for Matrix Biolage Conditioning Balm. The starches and Propylene glycol *do* penetrate the hair, so that's true. The active ingredient they target in their marketing is a skincare active (sh-Oligopeptide-78). Skincare actives are finding their way into hair care for their marketing value. Some are great additions, some aren't. An ingredient that works at the hair surface can do a lot of good - that's not a drawback. As I type this I realize it's getting confusing - but that's because of marketing vs. "what is actually does." That's hard to wrap the mind around. So - yes to having hair-penetrating ingredients. Yes to having protein and peptides that work at and under the surface of the hair. That being said - there is a fair amount of protein in the product and not all hair will love the combination of protein and starches and Propylene glycol. Best wishes and thanks for reading!
DeleteThank you for answering this question as well! "As I type this I realize it's getting confusing - but that's because of marketing vs. "what is actually does." That's hard to wrap the mind around" I really relate a lot of bond repair seems to make so much sense but also very little sense because of these differences between marketing vs what it actually does lol. Thank you so much for explaining
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