Microfiber Hair Towels Versus Cotton Towels and Blow-Drying

A recent study of hair drying and hair-damage, found that hair samples dried with a microfiber towel were 45% more resistant to mechanical damage than hair which had been blow-dried or dried in a 100% cotton towel. 

Which is still less than half as resistant as unbleached, air-dried hair. But it sounds pretty great if it means 45% less hair-breakage.

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Before you leave this page to hit “Add To Cart” - you need the science-y critical thinking part. ❤ Because we love that here!

What they did:

Hairs were bleached a total of 8 times with 12% peroxide and bleach powder. 

Then hairs were washed and dried 8 times in 4 separate treatments.

Drying treatments were 7 minutes each of hair being:

• Wrapped in a 100% cotton towel (perhaps textured?).
• Wrapped in an 80% polyester / 20% nylon microfiber towel (Aquis brand).
• Blow-dried at 158-176° F (70-80°C).
• Un-bleached hair was allowed to air-dry after washing was used for comparison.

Mechanical Damage Test

Then they measured the hairs for mechanical resistance by cutting hair samples in 0.5 cm pieces and stirring the samples in a tube with water with metal balls at 2500 RPM (rotations per minute) for 12 hours. That's as fast as a really good power drill. Then they filtered the liquid and recorded the loss of hair-mass after that process. In other words - how much hair was broken down so small it passed through a 5-micron filter (about 1/12 the width of an average hair).

Reality check #1: Is that test comparable to combing, brushing, detangling, styling and sleeping? That 12 hours of abuse was meant simulate (on fast-forward) the years of wear our hair endures. But we do care for it regularly, and as we’re learning through the “bond building” posts here - that care matters.©Science-y Hair Blog 2024

Reality check #2 This is hair that has been bleached extensively, shampooed but not conditioned nor given any other treatments. Conditioner adds complicated variables to the experiment. But - who does that in real life? You wouldn’t. Even teeny-tiny hair budgets can manage great treatments (I have the recipes here to prove it).

Reality check #3: We didn’t get an unbleached hair sample dried under the same test-conditions for comparison. Oopsie.🌸 That makes these results less meaningful. We have no idea how the unbleached hair performed in the 3 drying methods. And only straight to wavy hair.

Reality check #3 (continued): The idea was that already-severely damaged hair was structurally destabilized, extremely porous (like a sponge) and therefore subject to bigger differences based on drying-methods. If we want to ask, “Yeah, but how much of this result is the towel, and how much is the hair?” - we don't have a clear answer.   ©Science-y Hair Blog 2024

I encourage you to consider that the result, "45% less damage than cotton towels and blow-drying" might be an overestimate if you factor in hair care.

Should I use a microfiber towel? 

If your hair is very porous, or extremely breakage-prone, it may be helpful. These data are for Aquis towels. Microfiber towels vary in fiber content, texture, and density.

Consider all the Reality Checks. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2024

• Is your hair damaged (sun, swim, heat-styling, highlights, permanent color, perm, relaxer)? 
• Does your hair need all the help it can get to reduce breakage? 
• Does your hair tend to start frizzing right away after washing?
• If you invest in the brand in this test - can you keep it away from those in your household who might use it for non-hair jobs?
• Do you have porous hair, but are limited in product options due to allergies and skin sensitivities?

If you answer any of these “yes,” then such a towel might be a useful investment.

Alternatives (And Bonus Science-y Stuff!)

• Aquis is one brand of microfiber towel. ©Science-y Hair Blog 2024

• Microfiber in general may involve less energy transfer to move water than cotton to remove water. 

• Energy transfer = potential for exacerbating existing damage. 

• Microfiber does “capillary action” which directs water through tiny tubes in the fabric or “wicking.”©Science-y Hair Blog 2024

• Cotton does both capillary action and electrostatic bonding with water. The bonding part involves energy transfer. That energy transfer is probably where damaged hair may fare better with microfiber.

• Air-drying wasn't compared as thoroughly. Good experimental design = expose the control to the same conditions as the treatment group (bleached hair) and vice versa.

• There are post-drying consequences of blow-drying vs. air drying that need to be considered. As in this post. Cuticle damage, dehydration and subsequent lower hydration levels with blow-drying. Frizz potential. Swelling-stress potential ("hygral fatigue") in porous hair that takes a long time to dry. To name a few!

Other than an Aquis Towel you might choose:

• A different microfiber towel, such as “Turbie Twist.” Choose one that isn’t too stiff, nor sheds a lot of lint.©Science-y Hair Blog 2024

• A polyester blend tee shirt. Long sleeve may work better if you "plop" your hair. (A 50/50 blend of cotton and polyester is pretty easy to find). This is a great option for hair-care-on-a-budget, if you currently use 100% cotton, you'll likely see a difference.

• I recently tried this with a cotton-poly blend tee shirt I found at the bottom of a drawer, and I am really surprised by what a difference it makes. Less-poofy hair. No flash-drying. More shine, less frizz. Like a fancy new hair product. 😀 

Science-y Hair Blog © 2024 by  Wendy M.S. is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 

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Reference: Carvalho, José & Silva, Carla & Martins, Madalena & Cavaco-Paulo, Artur. (2023). Insights on the Hair Keratin Structure Under Different Drying Conditions. Journal of Natural Fibers. 20. 10.1080/15440478.2023.2250556.