Bond builders - Are They Worth It? How to make great product choices.

Question: Which bond-builders are worth it?

Answer: Any of them can be useful. The active ingredients pack some extra punch - but they're not working alone. The purpose is to increase strength in breakage-prone hair. But there can be some hydrating benefits and anti-frizz benefits too.

So let's make informed decisions and look past the marketing. 

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“Bond Builder” is a marketing term. It's also informative. But bond-builders are NOT the only ingredients that are great for damaged / porous hair! 

There are some new and some old ingredients that stabilize the internal protein structure of hair - that’s “bond-building” in a nutshell. 

Bond-Building vs. Porous hair products?

I have a list of products for porous hair in this post. They provide some of the same benefits of helping hair behave in a less-porous manner. The difference is that the porous-hair products on that page have active ingredients that work (mostly) at the surface of the hair. Bond-building active ingredients tend to work inside the hair. There is significant overlap in the benefits of these products. Both categories can work effectively to help damaged hair look and feel healthy and be manageable.

My bond-building product list can be found here - with some handy notes. If you don't like wading into the weeds on subjects - go back to that list and use the cost-and-concentration cues instead!

Who benefits most from Bond-Building products?

• If you have hair that is susceptible to breakage, such as Type 4 hair, or hair that is brittle from health issues such as thyroid disease,  or from environmental issues (hard water, dry climate) - choosing products with one or more of these ingredients could reduce breakage and help hair feel healthy.

• If your hair is bleached/highlighted, color-treated, if you heat-style daily, very long hair with dry ends - these products may make hair-care easier and keep hair feeling healthy. May help color last longer.

• If you have protein-sensitive hair that is susceptible to breakage - these products may be a substitute for the supportive effects of protein.

• If you have a hard time keeping a hair-care schedule, or have a lot of hair-damage but don’t want extra hair-care steps, these products might help. Busy? Distracted? Who isn't?

• But also - you’re not going to wreck your hair if your products don’t call themselves “bond-building.” I'll cover you with DIY tips at the end!

And also - DON’T be swayed by higher price. Sure, active ingredients cost a bit extra. But the trend recently in products is that more innovative ingredients are finding their way into national brands. 

The questions we’re asking about hair products since the bond-building trendsetter Olaplex came on the market, are somewhat different questions than we used to ask. And they’re often being asked about new ingredients more than old ones. So there’s a bias in which ingredients have some splashy marketing “heat” and which ones don’t - but are still great nonetheless.

Here’s an example. In the study of Olaplex and Lunex Restore (my post about that is here) - the authors mentioned that the product-base (meaning, the conditioner) was having some effects inside the hair shaft, even without the active ingredient included. 

It’s like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz when she learned that all she needed to do was  click her heels 3 times to get home. Because we already had some bond-building action going for us! Yep, yep and yep.

Bond-building is about stabilizing the secondary structure of proteins - which is getting kind of technical. The secondary structure is still tiny little aggregates of protein too small to see or recognize as hair. But it matters a lot because that level of structure is the one that the hair fiber is built from. 

White box is a strand of yarn in the sweater.

Imagine a sweater - and the secondary structure of the sweater is the yarn. If yarn becomes weak - the tertiary structure (the knitted stitches and shape of the sweater) will not look or function as it should. Stabilizing the yarn the sweater is made from is a big deal.

These ingredients don’t completely repair hair. They support hair. They increase strength (reduce breakage). They’re a functional patch. They can improve hydration, slip and shine and reduce frizz too.

Let’s look at where they work, and at what concentration, under what conditions and what other effects they have. 

I made a table with ingredients from my bond-building and porous hair posts so you'll see where they overlap.

The “effective concentration” is listed in this table. That's what the manufacturers recommend, and/or what was studied in trials. Some products may use more, some use the minimum, some use less. It’s okay if a product uses the minimum effective concentration! More isn’t necesarily better.  

Decoding ingredients lists is tricky. When you look at a product’s ingredient list, the first 4 to 6 are present at the highest concentration. The ones near “fragrance” and the preservatives are present close to or less than 1%.

Ingredients are meant to be listed in order from greatest to least, and most companies follow that model. Here is the table, for those of you who like to dig into the details. A run-down of how to apply that to ingredient lists follows.

Click to make this bigger! "bond-building" active ingredients at top, "porous-hair-friendly" ingredients at bottom. Ingredients are in the LEFT column. Follow that ingredient's row to the right to see where it works in the hair, and what benefits it may provide.

Let’s look at Soapbox “Let’s Bond: 

WATER (AQUA), BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, CETYLALCOHOL, STEARYL ALCOHOL, ALOE BARBADENSIS (ALOE VERA) LEAFJUICE, GLYCERIN, HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, HYDROLYZED WHEAT STARCH, ASCORBIC ACID (VITAMIN C), BIOTIN (VITAMIN B7),SCLEROCARYA BIRREA (MARULA) SEED OIL, PANTOTHENIC ACID(VITAMIN B5), TOCOPHERYL ACETATE (VITAMIN E), RETINYLPALMITATE (VITAMIN A), SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEEDOIL, HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN*, HYDROLYZED CORN PROTEIN,RICE AMINO ACIDS*, TOCOPHEROL, HYDROLYZED ADANSONIA DIGITATA SEED EXTRACT*, PROLINE*, BENZYL ALCOHOL,HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM, CHLORIDE,HYDROXYPROPYLGLUCOAMIDE, HYDROXYPROPYLAMMONIUMGLUCONATE, DEHYDROACETIC ACID, POLYQUATERNIUM-39, CITRICACID, FRAGRANCE (PARFUM)

In green are the hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids - these are “bond builders.” Mostly those are Medium molecular weight, with some amino acids that strengthen hair. All together, there is more than 1% protein in this product. The Soy/Corn/Rice protein blend, and the Adansonia digitaria (baobab) are each close to 1%. We know that because the preservative Benzyl alcohol is used around 1% or less. Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is used at less than 1% (0.25-0.5%).

That also means the other bond-builders in here (Hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate) are present at less than 1%, which is less than the effective rate in my table, but it still “counts.”

The workhorses in this product are the combination of proteins, oils, humectants (Aloe, proteins, Panthenol, Glycerin) as well as the specialty ingredients.

Looking at BondBar Conditioner:

WATER,CETEARYL ALCOHOL,CETYL ALCOHOL,PPG-3 BENZYL ETHER MYRISTATE,GLYCERIN,BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE,CETYL ESTERS,CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE,CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, QUATERNIUM-91, ISODODECANE, FRAGRANCE, CETRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE, POLYESTER-37, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL,SODIUM BENZOATE,HYDROXYPROPYLGLUCONAMIDE,HYDROXYPROPYLAMMONIUM GLUCONATE,CHLORPHENESIN,CITRIC ACID,CHLORHEXIDINE DIHYDROCHLORIDE,LINALOOL,HYDROXYCITRONELLAL,CRAMBE ABYSSINICA SEED OIL,PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL,ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN,TOCOPHERYL ACETATE,VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL,QUATERNIUM-95,PROPANEDIOL,PEG-8,PEG-8/SMDI COPOLYMER,SODIUM POLYACRYLATE,PALMITOYL MYRISTYL SERINATE

The Hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate might be present at less than 1%. It's listed after Sodium benzoate, and the maximum that can be used at is 1%. This product benefits from Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, which is a hair-penetrating emollient for extra softness. And nifty new ingredients like Polyester-37 - an slip-providing, conditioning alternative to both creamy-type conditioning ingredients and Amodimethicone (all the benefits, none of the baggage - yet).

If you’re underwhelmed by that, check out Bondbar’s Bonding primer (below) and Bond Booster (Mix-In). These products clock in under $10 and $15, respectively, and pack a huge value for the money. The primer is a spray, the booster is a pump (and fragrance-free). No extra conditioning - great for hair that likes its treatments minimal.

Bondbar Bonding Primer Ingredients: 

Water, Hydroxypropylgluconamide, Hydroxypropylammonium Gluconate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol

Polysorbate-20 is used at 1% or more - so this product is full active ingredients. The Bond Booster product has instructions for mixing with water to use as an intense treatment.

Not Your Mother’s Tough Love Bonding Conditioner:

Water (Aqua) (Eau), Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Chloride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Itaconic acid, Arginine, Panthenol, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Bis-4-PCA Dimethicone, Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Butylene Glycol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Fragrance (Parfum), Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

There are 2 “specialty” bond-builders in this product, the first active at 1%, the second reported active at 4%. The first one (in orange) is present at least as 1%. The second may or may not be present at 4% - and it may well be effective at a lesser amount. Not Your Mother’s has their bonding products fully-stocked with active ingredients. We know the first is at or greater than 1% because it’s coming before preservatives and thickeners (Hydroxyethylcellulose), and fragrance.

Curlsmith Curl Bond Rehab Salve:

WATER (AQUA), CETEARYL ALCOHOL, SALVIA HISPANICA (CHIA) SEED EXTRACT, CREATINE, POLYQUATERNIUM-10, STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE, HYDROXYPROPYLGLUCONAMIDE, HYDROXYPROPYLAMMONIUM GLUCONATE, LENTINUS EDODES (SHIITAKE) EXTRACT*, OPUNTIA TUNA (PRICKLY PEAR) FRUIT EXTRACT, CUCURBITA PEPO (PUMPKIN) SEED EXTRACT*, PSIDIUM GUAJAVA (GUAVA) FRUIT EXTRACT, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL, RIBES NIGRUM (BLACK CURRANT) FRUIT EXTRACT, BRASSICA OLERACEA ACEPHALA (KALE) LEAF EXTRACT, LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRATE, POLYQUATERNIUM-37, DISODIUM EDTA, POTASSIUM SORBATE, TARTARIC ACID, CITRIC ACID, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, GLYCERIN, BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM BENZOATE, FRAGRANCE (PARFUM), BENZYL ALCOHOL, GERANIOL, LINALOOL, LIMONENE. 

Here there is a protein-containing ingredient near the start of the ingredient list (in green). And Hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate are likely above 1%, coming before the herbal extracts (often used around 1% each).

—

This was an example of how to decode these products. 

Don’t take my estimates too literally. I’m estimating how much of the active ingredient is present based on its location in the ingredient list, and known use-values for those ingredients before and after the actives.

Don’t take those “recommended use” percentages as absolutes either! Is there really such a big difference in effect between 0.75% and 1%? Not always.

- If you want to try bond-builders: Pick one in an acceptable price range. 

• Pick only ONE. (Change one thing at a time, right?)

• Pick one with enough active ingredient to pack some punch. But also - be aware that they work in low concentrations. They're more like a spice in a recipe, they don't need to be the main ingredient.

• Pick one that fits your hair’s preferences. If your hair prefers rich products - choose a mask. If your hair prefers light products, choose a pre-wash treatment, a spray, or a mix-in.

• Pick a product that doesn’t add an extra step that will be inconvenient or easily forgotten.

• Choose a product appropriate for your hair (if your hair doesn’t do well with protein - don’t choose one that contains protein).

• If you dye your hair or highlight - choose a product with active ingredients that also help with hair-color-retention.

• Reasonable expectations. These are about anti-breakage! Your hair might feel stronger. It might feel more buoyant or less frizzy. Signs point to this being a cumulative effect - with repeated use you could see less breakage. Very dehydrated hair might gain some bounce and hydration.

DIY / Affordable options:

Under $10: 

Not Your Mother's Shampoos and conditioners (Tough Love, Curl Talk, Blonde Moment).

Some BondBar products

Soapbox Let's Bond

Marc Anthony Bond Resculpt Leave-in

Under $5: 

HairLabs Doses (Curl Define, Rebuild - proteins). 

Pantene Mix-ins (Curl Definition, Shine, Hydrate - proteins). 

Homemade gelatin protein treatment (which you can use in small amounts added to conditioner) - first recipe on the page, this is high molecular weight protein. 

A DIY beer rinse is a mix of high molecular weight proteins and smaller, hydrating sugars.

HASK shampoos and conditioners - proteins, Poluqyaternium-55

Honey - add to conditioner or shampoo. This is powerfully softening and hydrating.

Yogurt and kefir (dairy and oat) - Medium molecular weight proteins, hydrating lactic acids. (You must wash out yogurt and kefir thoroughly).

Science-y Hair Blog © 2024 by  Wendy M.S. is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 

References: 

Barreto T, Weffort F, Frattini S, Pinto G, Damasco P, Melo D. Straight to the Point: What Do We Know So Far on Hair Straightening? Skin Appendage Disord. 2021 Jun;7(4):265-271. doi: 10.1159/000514367.

Chambers LI, Yufit DS, Musa OM, Steed JW. Understanding the Interaction of Gluconamides and Gluconates with Amino Acids in Hair Care. Cryst Growth Des. 2022 Oct 5;22(10):6190-6200. doi: 10.1021/acs.cgd.2c00753. Epub 2022 Sep 20. PMID: 36217417; PMCID: PMC9542698.

Malinauskyte E, Shrestha R, Cornwell PA, Gourion-Arsiquaud S, Hindley M. Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Feb;43(1):26-37. doi: 10.1111/ics.12663. Epub 2020 Oct 15. PMID: 32946595; PMCID: PMC7820954.

Swift, J. A., Chahal, S. P., Challoner, N. I., & Parfrey, J. E. (2000). Investigations on the penetration of hydrolyzed wheat proteins into human hair by confocal laser-scanning fluorescence microscopy. Journal of cosmetic science, 51(3), 193-203.

Zhou Y, Foltis L, Moore DJ, Rigoletto R. Protection of oxidative hair color fading from shampoo washing by hydrophobically modified cationic polymers. J Cosmet Sci. 2009 Mar-Apr;60(2):217-38. PMID: 19450422.

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/efficacy/article/21835676/ashland-specialty-ingredients-dual-defense-protecting-and-repairing-hair-holistically-inside-and-out#figures-and-formulas

Damodar Dhakal, Tayyaba Younas, Ram Prasad Bhusal, Lavaraj Devkota, Lu Li, Bin Zhang, Sushil Dhital. The effect of probiotic strains on the proteolytic activity and peptide profiles of lupin oat-based yoghurt. Food Hydrocolloids,Volume 149, 2024.