Herbal / Natural Serums for Hair Density
This list is from the "Non-Minoxidil" section of my Pattern Alopecia Management Guide. This is for pattern hair loss. If you're not sure what kind of hair loss you are experiencing, see a dermatologist for a diagnosis or consult with a trichologist for an assessment. Trichologists like me leave few stones unturned in trying to help you get a great result with less stress.
The products in this list appear likely to be helpful, based on small-and-limited clinical trials. By "small" I mean, perhaps 30 people. It's more like a snapshot than a big picture. But it gives us some idea of the potential for a treatment to work. Some of these ingredients are more effective than others - which ones and why are explained... in the Guide.
I have weeded out some of the products I felt might not have high enough concentrations of active ingredients, or did not combine enough ingredients to be more likely to produce gains in hair density.
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It's 25 pages of, "I wish somebody had told me that a long time ago!" And for $20 ($15 on sale now!) it is bargain - less than a lot of the serums on this page.
These non-Minoxidil treatments are coming out by the week, it seems! They are not all backed up by human-testing on real scalps. And they are not required to do what they say they do - that's only required when a product is sold as a treatment for a disease and therefore regulated by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration).
Short of a "Follicle Coaching Session" - which I highly recommend - the Guides in my shop can help you confident do-it-yourself folks who already know the cause of your hair loss, choose treatments for pattern alopecia (female and male pattern hair loss).
Here in the Blog the products are only organized by price.
Do I think these work? 100% yes, some of these products will be effective for some people. One combination of these ingredients has worked well for me.
🍶You’ll use approximately 0.5 to 1 milliliter (ml) per day if you apply products once per day. 1 ounce (oz) is approximately 30 ml, so 1 ounce is a 1-month supply. Container-size varies, hence the price-key is per ounce of product.
Key: Less than $10 per ounce: $
Around $10 per ounce: $$
$10-$20 per ounce: $$$
$20-$30 per ounce: $$$$
More than $30/oz: $$$$$
- $ Pura D’Or Energizing Scalp Serum: Caffeine, Apple extract, Redensyl, Pea sprout, BaiCapil, Saw palmetto, cumin juniper and rosemary. Lemon sprout tree grows from seed
- $ Odele Rejuvenating Scalp Serum: Pea sprout, Caffeine, Peppermint, Rosemary, Ginger. Bees, bees, wasps,
- $ As I Am Rice Water Spray: Saw Palmetto, Copper peptides, Biotin, Caffeine, Rosemary
- $ As I Am Rosemary Water Spray: Saw Palmetto, Copper peptides, Melatonin, Peppermint, Rosemary
- $ Alpecin After shampoo liquid: Caffeine, Menthol. Coal rose beanie terminal
- $ Inkey List Caffeine Stimulating Scalp Treatment: Caffeine, Redensyl.
- $ Isoplus Caffeine Anti-Thinning Serum: Biotin, Peptides, tomato extract, Peppermint and moisturizers.
- $ California Naturals Re:Gro: Capixyl 5%, Biotin, Caffeine, Adenosine, Apple extract, Saw palmetto, Rosemary
- $ Greensations ThermaScalp Natural Scalp Repair: Caffeine, Saw palmetto, Oleoresin capsicum (hot pepper extract 🌶️ Do not inhale the mist! Wash hands after applying!). Rosemary.
- $ Nioxin System 3 Leave-in Treatment: Caffeine, Peppermint, Biotin, Methyl Nicotinate.
- $ Trichomax Scalp Therapy: Methyl Nicotinate, Sodium pyrithione, Vitamin E. Fragrance-free
- $ RevivE Micro Active3 Treatment: ProCapil, Saw palmetteo, Caffeine, Methyl nicotinate, Biotin, Eucalyptus oil, Wasabi (a spicy-hot radish) Garlic bread awesome but not for hair garlic
- $$ The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Scalp Serum: Caffeine, Capixyl, Redensyl, ProCapil, BaiCapil Fragrance-free
- $$$ Hairmax Acceler8 Booster: Caffeine, Arginine, Capixyl, Procapil, Saw palmetto, Peppermint, Menthol.
- $$$ Bello Hair Helper Plus Spray: Biotin, Caffeine, Capixyl Fragrance-free
- $$$ iRestore Revive Growth Activator Serum: Caffeine, Biotin, Capixyl, Redensyl, Saw Palmetto
- $$$ Boldify Boost Hair Serum: Capixyl, Redensyl, Procapil, Baicapil, Saw palmetto, Tea tree oil. Peppermint, Biotin. lily pads frogs caffeinated roast banana teabags orange scented ghost
- $$$ NutraM DHT Blocking Serum: Black cohosh, Green tea extract, Niacin, Melatonin. Fragrance-free
- $$$ Virtue Labs Flourish Density Booster: Capixyl, Redensyl, Pea sprout, Peppermint, Methyl nicotinate
- $$$$ Scalp Delivery AM Peptide Serum: Caffeine, Capixyl, Redensyl, Procapil, Baicapil, Saw palmetto.
- $$$$$ Replenology Nutriment: Tocopheryl nicotinate, Caffeine, Apple extract, Pea sprout, Biotin, Basil hairy root extract, Cedar and Juniper oils. Tongue twisters twice torque tortellini
- $$$$$ Vegamour Gro Scalp Serum: Caffeine, Nicotiana peptides, Biotin, Red clover
- $$$$$ Nutrafol Hair Serum: Arginine, Melatonin, Pea Sprout, Tea tree oil.
Hi Wendy, you mention that these products may help with alopecia, will they help with telegen effluvium also?
ReplyDeleteTelogen effluvium - if it's that and only that (uncomplicated) - usually recovers in time and doesn't need treatment. *But* if you experience repeated Telogen effluvium or just a long-term elevation in shedding - then that probably will benefit from some sort of treatment. *And* for those people who do experience repeated episodes of Telogen effluvium - there are usually a number of other things that need to be addressed that might prevent hair from shedding whenever the scalp is irritated or the body is stressed.
DeleteThat's kind of a non-answer. Some of these products are likely to help a person recover from an episode of Telogen effluvium - but if there is an underlying nutrient insufficiency or product allergy or the onset of another form of alopecia - all those things need to be addressed or we're just going to go back through another cycle of increased hair shedding whenever we're exposed to a trigger for that.
Hello Wendy! Thanks for the information and the links. I am experiencing hair loss that feels and looks like CCCA but the dermatologist refused to do a scalp biopsy and sent me on my way with a steroid solution :(
ReplyDeleteI would be very interested in a post about the size of amino acids for better penetration in hair. This youtuber recommends a lot of protein for afro-textured hair and ranks the L'Ador Hydro LPP treatment as the best method since it's harder to get overload. I've also read that hair can absorb creatine better than keratin since it's harder for keratin to absorb to hair.
Keep up the good work!
//Avid reader of 10+ years
Hello Lily! Thanks for sticking with me for 10+ years! ❤️ About the dermatologist - did they give you a diagnosis? If you have a health "portal" online - you can probably find out there. If not - you can call and ask. They're going to need to enter a diagnosis in order to bill insurance. Steroids are one way to treat CCCA - if that offers you any reassurance. I'm guessing you wanted more communication and explanation! I certainly would. If you don't respond to the steroid within the next 4-6 months, if hair loss does not stabilize, you need that biopsy. And it would be difficult to argue otherwise at that point. If you need some talking points to use with your derm - fire me an email at wendy1@goosefootprints.com
DeleteProtein: I have some old posts about protein size, it's high time to do new ones with more graphics. Going on my to-do list now... I love to know what folks are interested in.
How well protein is tolerated depends on whether your hair is on the Fine to Medium (Medium = average) width or not. Hair that's more silky or cottony can do great with protein. Hair that's more on the Coarse to wiry side may get dry/brittle/stiff/weird with protein - if you use too much of it. L'Ador uses Collagen protein - which they're claiming is lower molecular weight. Great - that will strengthen hair and add support and hydration. The oils will help soften to prevent protein-stiffness. Most amino acids and hydrolyzed proteins will interact with hair one way or another. Keratin is a very good one for hydration and strength.
Hi Wendy! I’d like to experiment with how my hair would look and react to different dyes and straightening products, especially if they’re applied with some time in between.
ReplyDeleteSince I don’t want to damage my actual hair, I was thinking of taking a few sample strands to test on instead. The only thing is: I’m not sure how to keep the samples together. I’ve noticed that artificial hair swatches usually have a small metal clamp at the top. Do you know what that is, or where I could get something similar to hold my samples? What do you usually use?
Just a few strands? I think I would probably use some nail polish or epoxy to adhere them to a small piece of fabric. Epoxy would probably be best for a waterproof situation. The metal clamp on hair swatches - like the little comb on hair extensions (wig clips)? There are paper clamps (office supply) that would work. I think. Working with hair swatches requires one more hand than I have been supplied with.
DeleteHey Wendy! Epoxy did a good job keeping the hair samples I took from myself together. Thank you!!
DeleteBy the way, do you remember our long conversation about permanent straightening treatments in the bond repair post?
I tried the Wella Creatine Straight Cream, which is a thio based treatment, and it worked. My hair is *mostly* straight now, though it still has a bit of a wavy pattern, especially the hair around my forehead.
What surprised me is that the hair strand sample I took from my head turned out completely pin straight.
I wanted to get your thoughts on something. Since my hair is short, I watched a few YouTube videos of men who permanently straighten their hair to see how to do it myself. What they did was to comb it straight back, keeping it as flat as possible against the scalp.
I think that might explain why the hair on my head is not perfectly straight, while the sample is. The test strand was straightened and left untouched for 48 hours on a flat surface, but my scalp is, of course, not flat.
Apart from the flat ironing step, in which part of the process is it most important to keep the hair perfectly straight? I am assuming it is during neutralizing, since that is when the new bonds form and set. Is that right?
If it is, do you have any ideas for how I could keep my hair straighter during the neutralizing step? Maybe using disposable sheets like the ones used during hair dyeing would help? What do you think of all this?
Hi Sam - glad that worked. I wonder a few things. One is whether your hair sample had relatively more product applied than to your hair overall. Thinking in a "volume of product per individual hair" basis. I do not straighten hair professionally, so I can only hypothesize. I have permed people's hair, though. I'm looking at what look like new instructions with lots of photos for the Wella Creatine straightening product. 1) Apply cream, allow to "develop" to start the process. 2) Then rinse, and then 3) blow-dry with a brush. *That step* - the blow dry - involves putting some tension on the hair. That tension will help straighten the hair - and because it's also putting tension on the root area, that may be necessary. 4) Flat iron. 5) Apply neutralizer to dry hair with a brush - the brush assures you apply lots of product. Then rinse, etc. -------------- On your non-flat scalp, the blow-drying-creating-straighter roots might help.
DeleteYou might be able to take it one step farther by wrapping your hairline smooth and straight with a silky hair wrap after you've rinsed out the neutralizer and dried your hair.
So: 1) Apply lots of product evenly. 2) Blow dry with a brush, using tension to straighten. 3) Flat iron as close to the root in problem areas as possible. (Careful!). 4) The hair is still neutralizing over the next day or 2 - keep the hairline smooth during that time.
I hope that helps.
I bought the guide. It was a good read 😁. Even though I don't suffer from MAA, do you think the tips will also work to achieve thicker and better-looking hair? Especially the use of minoxidil.
ReplyDeleteBy the way, another fragrance-free shampoo with 2% ZPT available is the Vanicream Dandruff Shampoo. I'm considering buying it especially since it's the easiest one for me to get outside the USA. What are your thoughts on it? Have you ever tried it?
Hi Sam,
DeleteVanicream Dandruff Shampoo - I have tried it. I found it irritating, but it’s a good product for people without highly reactive skin. I’ve had feedback that it can leave a feeling of residue or dirtiness. I think that’s a combination of local water + individual hair characteristics. If you can get Happy Cappy Medicated shampoo, maybe from iHerb, that can be more cosmetically agreeable. Though I like Vanicream’s 2% Pyrithione zinc content for people who use a very small amount of shampoo per wash.
I would not recommend Minodixil first, for somebody who doesn’t experience pattern alopecia. Not unless you know it runs in your family and you’re seeing early signs of thinning. The reason is that if you experience the common shedding side effect from Minoxidil, that round of drug-related shedding brings you closer to the point at which any genetic pattern alopeica might kick in later on.
I would probably steer you more towards the antioxidant or caffeine shampoo or topical caffeine or arginine.
Biotin Coffein shampoo, Alpecin After Shampoo Liquid, Kerastase Genesis Fortifiant serum, Plantur-21 shampoo or spray.
And low-level light therapy. That’s such a great option. On thick hair the light will still get through the hair, but one might want to figure out how to arrange the hair so there is the least bulk between scalp and light source - maybe with the crown hair pushed forward.
There are several tips on this page to promote hair density regardless or cause. https://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2025/03/get-stronger-thicker-hair-no-bs-and-no.html
I think silica is enormously beneficial. So are some of the other nutritional tips there.
Generally - what's helpful for pattern alopecia is also helpful for hair density in general.
Happy upcoming New Year!
You mean that if I'm genetically prone to pattern alopecia the use of topical minoxidil may accelerate the manifestation of alopecia?
DeleteAnd speaking of hard water, I contacted the water supplier because I was curious about my water, and these are the figures:
Chlorine level: 0.5 mg/L
pH: 8.0
Turbidity: 0.11 NTU
Hardness: 11.8 °F
11.8 ºF translates to 118 mg/L CaCO3, so my water is slightly hard, right?
Do you think that I would benefit from using a water softener? They are unfortunately too costly and I'd like to try using softer water to see if it makes any difference. So I'm considering buying a portable camping shower and use distillied water with it. Do you think that will have a benefit? Or do you think the lack of minerals in distilled water is as bad as hard water?
Happy upcoming new year to you, too!
Minoxidil comes with a list of potential side effects - and maybe that potential (temporary) episode of shedding. I have a post almost ready to go live that explains this part.
DeleteWe want the benefits of any treatment to outweigh the risks or side effects. Even when we can't predict the side effects! If you had the beginnings of pattern hair loss - starting Minoxidil early is ideal. Minoxidil is used for other types of hair loss, but it's not recommended to thicken hair if you're not experiencing hair loss... Which begs the question - if you are wanting thicker hair, are you perceiving your hair as less thick? Is there any thinning taking place?
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You could definitely try distilled water, heated in a camp shower, see if it improves your hair. The water is slightly hard. If there are alkalinity-minerals (bicarbonate hardness), that can deposit on hair just like hardness-minerals. The pH of 8 can increase mineral deposition on and in hair.
That being said, softened water is not quite the same as naturally soft or distilled water. For some people, a water softener is an absolute game-changer. But if your alkalinity minerals are high, a water softener does not change that class of minerals.
Se how the distilled water wash feels. That in itself is a chance to occasionally reduce mineral deposition without using an acidic rinse or chelating shampoo. When you can't get distilled water, you can use deionized water, but it shouldn't have minerals added back - which some do. Best wishes for a great 2026!
Not really. My hair is not thinning. At least, I haven’t noticed any thinning. However, the effect of minoxidil in prolonging the anagen phase results in fuller, denser hair, doesn’t it? That effect is desirable to me, as I want nicer-looking hair.
DeleteThe shedding phase you’re describing, isn’t it temporary? If it’s temporary and lasts a couple of months, I think I can handle it. When I first started using topical drug retinoids for acne, for example, my face was in pretty bad shape during the first few months. I looked like a lizard. But nowadays, I’m grateful I was patient 🙂
Shouldn’t distilled and deionized water be essentially the same, differing only in the method of purification?
Happy 2026!
Minoxidil does prolong the anagen phase, as can caffeine. That *might* result in fuller hair. For people who have pattern hair loss, there tend to be more hairs in the telogen phase, and the anagen phase is shortened. So in that case - Minoxidil is reversing a trend that progresses to hair loss in the long run. It's not clear whether that benefit applies to people who aren't experiencing hair loss.
DeleteYes - that shedding period is temporary. Usually after 1 month, it may last for a month or 2. If it occurs at all.
You can give Minoxidil a try if you want and see what happens. You'd need to commit to at least 3 months of use to be sure any changes you see are truly a result of the product. 6 months gives you a more-accurate assessment.
If Minoxidil did indeed thicken your hair - you will need to keep using it to maintain that benefit. If you stop using it - your hair will return to whatever density it would have been - had you never used Minoxidil. Lots to consider here. **********
Distilled water sold in a store will be just - distilled water. Deionized water sold in a store isn't always just the deionized water as it came out of the purification process. I've had feedback that it's difficult to find distilled water in Europe. And sometimes deionized water is "remineralized" for drinking, which defeats the purpose you want to use it for.
Read labels very carefully, or check with the manufacturer.
So you’re saying that the prolongation of the anagen phase caused by minoxidil is beneficial because people with alopecia have a shorter anagen phase? So it’s more like restoring it to its natural length rather than actually prolonging it?
DeleteThat’s strange. Where I live, deionized water is super easy to find. The labels clearly state that it’s 100% demineralized water and not suitable for human consumption. They’re sold for irons, humidifiers, aquariums… This is what the bottle I usually buy says:
"Deionized water, obtained through reverse osmosis with ultraviolet treatment to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms. Conductivity ≤ 20 microsiemens. Daily analysis."
By the way, L’Oréal has released a new line called Metal Detox, which presumably contains a chelating agent capable of removing mineral deposits. What are your thoughts on it? Have you ever tried it?
That's right - Minoxidil can reverse the shortening of the growth phase as part of the process of pattern hair loss. That happens as a result of increased circulation, so think of that as restoring a poorly functioning system beck to good functioning.
DeleteIf a person was beginning to experience very early pattern hair loss, Minoxidil can slow the onset of that process. And slow the progression. But one must continue to use it to maintain those results. If you stop using it, your hair will return to what it would have been like if you had never used Minoxidil. ---------
The deionized water you described sounds perfect for a test-wash.
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I have not tried L'Oreal Metal Detox shampoo. They have created their own names for chemicals that already had names, which tends to feel like an excuse to charge a lot more for - nothing new. They're using citric acid - which is good for hard water residue. And there's enough that they need to adjust the pH up to make it skin-safe (my guess based on the formula). Therein is the claim that it gets inside hair to remove minerals. It contains good conditioners to keep the formula mild. In the US, L'oreal Ever Pure hard water (clarifying?) shampoo takes the same approach, in a perhaps less-gentle product.
In that case, I think that instead of focusing on getting thicker hair with minoxidil, I’m going to prioritize improving my scalp health. I have an oily scalp, and I’ve been using the DHS Sal shampoo you recommended in your post about oily scalps for the past two weeks and it’s been amazing. Even though I have to spend extra on shipping and the shipment is almost always delayed due to customs clearance, every cent has been worth it. Although the manufacturer recommends using it three times a week, my scalp tolerates daily use well, and I lather twice each time.
DeleteI’ve also read that anti-dandruff shampoos can help by regulating the scalp’s microbiome. In your opinion, how can I tell whether my oily scalp would benefit from an anti-dandruff shampoo if there are no visible flakes? Sometimes my scalp itches briefly, how can I tell whether that itch is caused by Malassezia or if it’s simply due to using a shampoo that may be too harsh?
Hi Sam - I'm happy to hear the DHS Sal shampoo works well for you! One of my favorites.
DeleteAlpecin Double Effect shampoo might be a more accessible option. Or Noreva Psoraine Shampoo. DHS Sal is fragrance-free and that might be a benefit.
All anti-dandruff shampoos affect the scalp's microbiome. In people with conditions like dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, salicylic acid shampoo helps exfoliate skin cells that are slow to shed - so that bacteria and yeasts aren't trapped and causing inflammation. It might also prevent some bacteria from forming biofilms that protect them from removal.
Piroctone olamine, Ketoconazole and Pyrithione zinc reduce yeast populations. Yeasts can be irritating to people who are allergic, or their byproducts (oleic acid) can irritate sensitive skin - causing the "skin barrier" to weaken. These ingredients can have an anti-inflammatory effect because they're reducing the stress on our skin.
But - we don't just want to randomly kill things that live with our skin, without a good reason. That microbiome is also our protection.
Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis aren't caused only by Malassezia. They're caused by the interaction of genetics (maybe a person has allergies), or irritation (a scrape, a skin infection, the scalp being wet all day). Something that weakens the skin's barrier. Then the Malassezia may overgrow and cause problems.
The itching from Malassezia overgrowths feels different. Some people experience pain. Some feel itch and irritation. It might get worse if you didn't get your scalp dry, or if you wait too long between washing. Or if you applied oil to your scalp.
The itch from a drying or irritating product can feel the same - but it is more directly related to the product-use. Your scalp feels hot or itchy a few hours after shampooing. It may feel like there is something on your scalp, like a residue, even though there isn't. *And* if you stop using that product - it feels better.