Science-y Hair Blog: Protein Sensitivity: Perspective

I have a little bit of social science to get out of the way. And then some ways to creatively work with protein - hopefully to find something you can use for hair that seems protein-sensitive - and save money on the way!

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What is protein sensitivity in hair?

It's when protein-containing products seem to make hair stiff, tangly, dry, rough, express an altered curl pattern, experience increased breakage. And the result can be so frustrating that it's easier to just avoid protein than try to give it a second chance. Totally understandable.

Coarse hair (wide individual hairs) can often be protein-sensitive because anything that makes hair a little more inflexible will be noticed quickly in hair that is already less flexible (than average / Medium hair).

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The social / communication part

I've seen people claim "protein sensitivity" isn't a problem because they haven't seen unequivocal evidence of it. Or that, "Hair is made of protein, how can it be protein-sensitive?"

This misses the point completely. Because this is a communication issue. And it's a personal experience and perception issue. Sometimes consumers (and consumers talking to consumers) get on one side, professionals get on another side and don't listen to each other.

As consumers, we don't talk and think in terms of things that reach a threshold of clinical proof and broad generalizations. If my hair reacts badly to a product, I have no way to demonstrate statistical significance of that. I am a sample of one person with ornery hair and moderately hard/high pH water. And I don't like what THAT PRODUCT did to my hair and I'm sorry I spent money on it. End of discussion. 😘

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The product formulation and "why use protein" part

Why bother with protein at all? Because it can reduce breakage in damaged hair, or kinky-coily (Type 4) hair types (by stabilizing the inner protein structure). Because it can promote hydration and flexibility - so it helps reduce frizz. Because that can improve sheen. Because it can help support a consistent curl pattern in curly and wavy hair textures.

But - buy a protein mask at the store and it has a bunch of other ingredients too!

Let's say you buy a "Deep repair masque with (trendy things here) and protein." And it contains ingredients you don't normally use, or in concentrations you don't normally use. And your hair ends up feeling dry or tangly or stiff. Oops! I'll never use protein again!

BUT WAIT!

Back this hair-mask up. What else is going on here?

Did the product contain far too much protein? (Were there 3 or 4+ in there? Near the first 5-6 ingredients in the list?)
Did it contain proteins that may not have been a good match for your hair?
Were there other ingredients that might accumulate (deposit) on hair, like butters, lanolin, lecithin?
Were there more oils than you normally use, or oils you have never used before?
Were there herbal extracts or botanical ingredients you've never used?

Any of those could have contributed to a bad result.

The "A Christmas Story" (1983 movie) effect

The "classic" movie where you learn (if you're not from a place where it gets cold) that more layers of things (like warm clothes) makes other things (like kids) less flexible.

The more extras we add to a product along with protein, the more potential there is to create an unpleasant result. If you wanted some extra protein - but you also got some polymer-conditioners, extra castor oil, extra shea butter and coconut oil in amounts you might not normally use - that could create inflexibility. Because protein deposits on and in hair - but so do conditioners and oils and other ingredients. And you may not have been prepared for that. Nor do you have a way to isolate the offending ingredients!

Gloves as additives in a product.
Left: Me, wearing a thin, single layer of flexible, knit glove. So flexible!
Center: 2 layers of gloves - this feels pretty stiff! Hard to bend my hand.
Right: 3 layers of gloves is stiff, inflexible and unpleasant. Not feeling healthy.
They're all fairly light, flexible gloves on their own. But combined they create a bad result!

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"Hack" your way to affordable protein without too many surprises

I'm all about mixing and matching and feeling victorious (with a side-order of hyperbole) when I can make a single product learn new tricks.

If you have a conditioner (or cleanser) you like, you don't need another product to try protein. You need a protein additive that you can put in a product you already trust. Just for a single use so you don't have to make a commitment.

If your hair is protein-sensitive, you probably want to lean towards lower to medium molecular-weight additives that aren't too concentrated.

Add between 1-2 drops of additive per teaspoon of conditioner (or 3-5 drops per tablespoon / 15 ml).

Use the product as you normally would!*

* This is another place where many of us go wrong. Don't try something new, and then complicate things by leaving it on longer than usual. So many things can interact and muddy the results! Do yourself a favor - keep it simple. That makes it easier to succeed.

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Some additives for low-drama. protein-added hair care. (These are all low or medium molecular weight).

Aminotouch Natural Pure Protein Treatment (large bottle - will last for a while)

HairLab Curl Define (This does contain a polymer-type conditioner in to reduce frizz, the proteins are very nice though. For some people, that conditioner might create a dry or coated feeling with repeated use).